New Trail: Sams Gap, NC to Indian Grave Gap, TN

When: May 1 - 4, 2014

Where: Sams Gap, NC (I-23 & Flag Pond Road) to Indian Grave Gap (TN 395)

Weather: 4 days of perfect weather, a bit cool at night, no rain.
Length: 32 miles northbound

Elevation Changes: Sams Gap, 3760; Big Bald Mtn., 5377; Big Bald Shelter, 5096; Spivey Gap, 3200; No Business Knob Shelter, 3190; Uncle Johnny's Hostel, 2022; Curley Maple Gap Shelter, 3083; Indian Grave Gap, 3350. 

I was back on the trail after a bitterly cold winter and some other circumstances kept me close to home. M was visiting her mom in Asheville, NC and I still had some miles from that region up to Damascus, VA to hike. Since I had been off the trail for 6 months I was a bit tentative about my conditioning and aware of the foot problems I sustained in my last two longer hikes north of Damascus. M dropped me off at Sams Gap, and with a positive attitude I set out from the parking lot of an overlook close to the gap around 1:30p having jumped a guardrail and some fence to access Flag Pond Road from the highway. That took me under the highway and directly into some major trail magic at the AT junction. The day was beautiful as were all the next three.

Local folks, knowing that this is prime thru-hiker season, had set out a feast to be reckoned with: every food item a starving hiker could dream off arrayed for the taking. Shucks, I had just eaten lunch with M and with a jittery stomach all I could get down was a grilled hot dog with no trimmings. But the rest of those 20 or so hikers there, some of whom I met up with later, indulged themselves with gratitude. Story has it that several lost their indulgences on the steep climb up to Big Bald.

What's new about Hiker Hank?

New Foot Setup

Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra 2

I performed some research in order to make some better choices for the feet; hiking distances with a sizable pack on one's back can punish the feet. Oh, how to protect those puppies? I did four things differently: 1) lubed my feet with petroleum jelly; 2) sported a new pair of trail-runners (similar to my old ones, now retired to the gym and neighborhood walks) that were not waterproof and were well-ventilated; 3) replaced my light-hiker merino wool socks for merino wool sock liners from REI; 4) used the inserts that came with the shoes instead of the Super Feet I had been using in my other shoes and boots. I hiked the 32 miles without so much as a twinge of hot spot. So far so good; the true test will be wetter, hotter weather and longer distances. I believe that my earlier problems, besides forgetting that I am always a tenderfoot at the beginning of a new section and pushing too hard at first, were caused by excess friction and swelling feet. The combination of regular socks (thicker  and abrasive when wet), the inserts (take up more space inside the shoe), poor ventilation (Gore-Tex keeps water out - somewhat, but when they eventually get wet it keeps the water in), and the fact that feet swell with heat and trauma basically made my shoes too small. My new shoes (same size) accompanied by the other changes resulted in a more open toe box, a better overall fit, and the mesh sides let air in and out like a screen door, so minimal heat build up.

Therm-A-Rest Neo-Air Sleeping Pad

I had been using an ultra-light ¾ length Therm-A-Rest sleeping pad for quite a number of years to minimize weight but had been sacrificing comfort because it was thinner and I could bottom out the thing when side-sleeping. Wow, this baby was amazing: lighter, cushier, longer, but noisier (sounds like crushing potato chips when you move), and less durable (gotta use that ground cloth - should get some Tyvek sheet). I slept like I was at home on my space foam mattress.

Plaid polyester shirt

The North Face Polyester Plaid Shirt

When I was hiking in the Smokies last spring I saw a hiker wearing a plaid collared shirt and just liked the look of it. It is light-weight, quick-dry, great with or without a knit shirt underneath (it has a light mesh across the shoulders and upper back), and I think it goes well with that kilt. When you wear one set of clothes over four days, you might as well wear was suits you best. I am still loving that kilt and I received lots of questions about it, the most frequent being, "What are you wearing underneath there?" That remains a mystery to some.

High Hopes Group

Almost immediately I found myself among the High Hopes Group, a clutch of hikers with some groupies, that had been hiking together soon after they left Springer 6 or 7 weeks ago. Leapfrogging best describes what can happen as folk hike at different paces and rest at different times. I really connected with this group on top of Big Bald Mt. The 1500 foot climb was actually delightful and I felt like I was in pretty good shape to tackle the ups and downs. Spending time at the Y recently doing yoga, strength training, and aerobic training paid off.

A few of the High Hopes with Big Bald in view

Trillium

Snow or Wildflower?

Experiencing the Bald views

Rain wanted to get blogged

As I ascended, the Bald the trail was beautiful with wildflowers in bloom and skies clear enough to see Wolf Laurel to the north and Erwin, TN to the east. I had seen this group and said hello, but Rain welcomed me instantly and made me feel like part of their group. It was quite windy at the top requiring the donning of my rain jacket. We all headed for the shelter and they treated me like royalty, assuring that I would have a prime spot in the shelter. I called them High Hopes because they had developed a ritual around their nightly fire pit where each person in the circle (all were welcome) would have the opportunity to describe their highs for the day and their hopes for tomorrow. This was a group that had developed togetherness to another level. The sharing was meaningful and edifying and, after all had contributed, the youngest of the group, Rabbit, sang a song with others chiming in that was derived from a Philmont Boy Scout song about backcountry experience. I was fortunate to hike with them on Day 1 and 2 and a few of them on Day 3.

I am still working on making videos and need to sort out the audio aspects of my camera. It was so bright that I could not see the viewing screen of the camera so I lost track of where I was a few times. The affect of the views is thankfully not lost.

Big Bald Shelter

This shelter looks small but could hold 10, it even had little wooden dividers to define the spaces. Many hikers tented in the spacious area around the shelter. Good water and privy.

Hank's spot and gear

How thoughtful!

The group rose slowly on Day 2 and were in no hurry to proceed. Many were going to push on to Erwin and some time in town, others had not decided yet and left the decision for later in the day depending on where they were and how they felt. I had planned to hike to the next shelter 10 miles away, so leaving at 10:30a was no problem. I remembered what Neville at Wood's Hole Hostel had told be about the many dimensions of a hike and not just focusing on grinding out the miles to the next shelter or campsite. I had no problem lingering among this group, hearing their stories and watching their interactions. Like most AT hikers, thru and section, they really cared for each other and where willing to share anything they had. There was excitement brewing about going into town, specifically about which buffet to assault and watering hole to frequent. I enjoyed the day seeing them on and off, but knowing that most would be ahead of me and I would probably not see them again.

Ridge trail

High Hopes at High Rocks

4.7 miles to No Business Knob

Another variety of Trillium

No Business Knob Shelter

Mecca, Rabbit, and Two Sticks

The No Business Knob Shelter was a minimalist structure, cinder block with a wooden deck,  lots of graffiti. Fortunately, I was aware that it was a dry shelter so I had watered up about a mile back and had plenty for the evening and morning.

Four Rickety Old Men

I encountered more older men, like me, this time out and that became most evident at his shelter. T-Bird and Rod&Real were there for a bit, and both were in my age group compared to all the 20 somethings about. R&R moved on down the trail. T-Bird stayed and some other folk strolled in later. Pretty full with a few tents. Most notable in residence though was a lovely and sophisticated young lady from New York City, Brooklyn to be precise, named Charcoal for her prowess with fire. She was self-possessed, intelligent, articulate, and purposeful though she seemed to be ambivalent about moving on to Erwin or staying in the shelter. Providence interceded and she stayed. As evening approached she suggested to a group of hoary guys a realignment of the sleeping arrangements to even out the space and, due a previous experience with a mouse attack on her down bag, she orchestrated the hanging of food bags, also a good idea since a bear had been spotted earlier in the day. She had a disarming personality and knew how to lead. The evening lengthened as the fire burned down without the community of the High Hopes but with meaningful conversation and sharing anyway. Off to bed at hiker midnight, 9:00p.

All were up pretty early, so I was off just before 8:00a just behind Charcoal who was planning on stopping at Uncle Johnny's Hostel and going into town for some buffet grub. I did not know what her plans were after that. She had mentioned the previous night that she was at some point going back to NYC to take care of a few things. She outpaced me, so I wondered if I would see her again. A bit later she was stopped on the trail either shedding a layer or making an adjustment. We set off together, Hank behind, and struck up a little conversation. I mentioned what I was doing and that M was in Asheville and that she was going to pick me up tomorrow down the trail past the next shelter and that we were heading back to Richmond, VA. She paused and asked something like are you going back to Asheville? I said no that we were going directly to Richmond about 6 hours away. Another pause and she said she had been thinking of how to get off the trail between where we were and Damascus. I asked her if she wanted a ride and she paused again; I could tell the gears were meshing in her brain. She explained a little of her circumstance and said she needed to think a bit. She headed on down the trail and I said that I would definitely look for her at Uncle J's to follow up. I spent the rest of the hike with T-Bird, a retired electrician from Ohio. We talked about factory work, retirement, benefits, travel, the trail, and our families while walking at a very pleasurable pace.

T-Bird overlooking the Nolichucky River

When I arrived at Uncle J's she was there with Two Sticks. She came over and told me she wanted to take me up on the offer of a ride. Details aside, the trip back would allow her to catch an express bus from Richmond to NYC the next night. With that settled she made her reservation and headed into town on the 11:30a shuttle for food with an expected return on the 1:30p. I did not need nor want to go into town so I just hung out at Uncle J's until she returned. Meanwhile, I sat with two older guys, one named Miracle, the other's name I forget. R&R was there as well. Over the next several hours we talked about just about everything. They had been in town last night and had planned on heading out at 11:30a but just could not pull themselves away. Uncle J's was an inviting and delightful place to just hang.

Uncle J's Entrance

Courtyard with latrines, cabins, and tent area

Porch in front of store to relax

I left about 2:30p while the two old guys, R&R, and Charcoal among others just enjoyed the setting. I pushed on to the shelter arriving in short order to find a few folks just resting who moved on soon thereafter. I had the whole place to myself until R&R showed, then the two old guys, and finally Charcoal, Two Sticks and two other guys we had seen earlier.

R&R at Curley Maple Gap Shelter

Charcoal and Four Rickety Old Men

This was an excellent shelter with pretty good water but no privy. The shelter was built in 2010 with two levels and space for 14. The overhang was particularly admirable with table nestled underneath (would be great for rainy conditions). A fire sprang to life, cooking began, and some outstanding camaraderie ensued around the campfire. Notice the cut logs and planks for sitting. While around the fire Charcoal commented on being surrounded by Four Rickety Old Men and the moniker stuck. Then to bed for an 8:00a departure to meet M at 10:00a at Indian Grave Gap, 4.5 miles down the trail.

An early and easy morning brought us to the parking lot on Rt. 395 TN where M had been waiting for few minutes. Greetings were exchanged and R&R who had been busy across the parking lot came over for some goodbyes. M, Charcoal and I set off for Richmond. We stopped a few times, but most memorable was brunch at the Wildflour Bakery in Abingdon. After eggs, omelets, biscuits, sausage, banana bread, fruit, grits, potatoes, Chai Tea, and coffee, we pushed north on I-81 and over I-64 east to Richmond. Charcoal was very adept with automobile slumber, and M and I caught up on the events of the last 4 days.

M and Charcoal discussing food choices at the
Wildflour Bakery in Abingdon, VA

Charcoal's bus left Richmond late in the evening so we were able to spend some time together at our home on Forest Avenue over a meal and meaningful conversation: a friendship solidified.

Reflections:

New gear can be so much fun to experience when it works to enhance a hike.

The thru-hiker culture on the AT is the best part of the experience. I hope I get to hike with some of them again later on this season.

Providence brings people together is simple ways for their mutual support, edification, and enjoyment.

Having a supportive spouse makes section hiking all the more possible and enjoyable.

I have never felt better at the end of hike than I did on Monday morning. I am looking forward to the next time out, whether sooner or later.