New Trail: Sugar Run Rd. (VA663) to Pearisburg, VA: Wood's Hole Hostel Reprise

M and puss on porch swing

Accommodations
When: November 6 - 8, 2013
Where: Wood's Hole Hostel, 3696 Sugar Run Road, Pearisburg, VA 24134
Link: Wood's Hole Hostel

Hike Information
When: November 7, 2013

Where: Rt. 663 SW of Pearisburg, VA. to Pearisburg, VA.

Weather: Windy with light rain to start; stiff winds on ridge line, clearing midday and brisk.

Length: 10.5 miles northbound
Duration: 4 hours
Elevation Changes: Sugar Run Gap (3450), ridge crest (3925), Angel's Rest (3550) Pearisburg (2025)


On my last hike northbound from Groseclose, VA, I ended 10 miles short of Pearisburg due to foot problems. I had originally planned on staying at Wood's Hole Hostel, finishing the hike the next day, and having M pick me up in Pearisburg. Plans changed and she picked me up at WHH. See previous blog posts if you are interested in that hike and my last experience at WHH. On the way home, I began to consider how I could finish those last 10 miles and revisit WHH.

M and I travel frequently to Asheville, NC to visit her mom and family and we had another trip planned in October for her birthday (she is 93 and amazing), but the trip was delayed until this past week due to M's back. We planned for a week away that included a few days at our house in Orange, VA (I hope the last mow of the year) the drive down to Asheville, a quick visit with her mom and the family, and a return via the valley of VA with a stop off at WHH. We arrived at WHH mid afternoon on Wednesday, I hiked my 10 miles on Thursday, and we headed home Friday morning.

The Hostel

We arrived around 3:30p Wednesday and found Michael busy as usual working on the new shower structure for the Bunkhouse. When they upgraded the septic system, the county inspector wanted them to include the shower drain in the scheme. If you want to know more about their septic system project and how you can help check out this link. M and I have been delighted to help out such a worthy endeavor. They want to serve their community and clientel to the best extent possible.

View of buildings from farm lane to pasture.

The foremost building is the Bunkhouse and the new construction in front is the foundation and base of the decking for the shower house. This is going to be an elegant bath and shower area the will soon become known all up and down the AT. Behind the Bunkhouse are the rooflines of the old cabin (left) and the two story addition (right).

Opposite view from the farm lane down the hollow

One of several animal huts on the farm

Keeping the animals in the right place is a challenge. New electric fencing has been installed since my last visit, but these guys are pretty smart and can figure out how to get where they want.

Goats on the porch

Michael directed us to Tillie's Room, a private upstairs room with queen-sized bed and lavatory; the room named after Neville's grandmother who was the first hosteler at WHH. We lolled about the porch just taking in the scene and waiting for Neville to return from business in town. We were not sure what to do about the loose goats. Michael called them, beat some gravel around in a bucket and they came running (and jumping). Neville arrived shortly and I helped her unload the groceries from the truck. Smooth and Ninja, a pair of Sobos, arrived about the same time and settled into the Massage room downstairs which can accept sleeping clients with the flip down of the Futon. Breeze and Pace showed a little later as well as three guys: Cool Blue, The Captain, and Blondie, who were Sobos hiking with Breeze. Pace is Breeze's husband visiting her from Texas. We all pitched in to help Neville prepare dinner and set the table, a common practice at WHH that builds community, an important aspect of life there. Dinner was red rice and marinara sauce with meat, but a vegan sauce was available for Ninja, accompanied by roasted squash and her signature bread and fresh salad. Blueberry ice cream finished off the meal.

Table set for eleven

Blondie, The Captain, and Cool Blue

Blondie, Ninja, The Captain, Michael, Neville, Smooth,
Cool Blue, M, Breeze, Pace (front left around to the right)

One of the reasons I wanted to come back here with M was to afford her the opportunity to interact with the AT thru-hiker community. I did not expect there to be so many still on the trail hiking south from Maine, headed to Springer Mt., GA, the southern terminus. These folk have hiked 1565 miles and have 620 to finish. They are facing some challenging hiking in the next month they will be on the trail. I admire them so much for their perseverance, stamina, and good nature, and I was especially delighted that M had a chance to meet some of them. They exemplify a culture that is caring, amiable, supportive, and indefatigable. These are also characteristics of Michael and Neville and make WHH such a special place. They are working so hard to make the place one that hikers and others looking for a retreat will find enjoyable, social, restful and edifying; they are a magnificent team.

Michael and Neville cutting and tossing wood
headed for the furnace

We all pitched in to clean up and soon thereafter all wandered away to their respective bunks. Breeze and Pace stayed in the other upstairs room that could be shared depending on who wants to be in the house versus the Bunkhouse.

On Thursday, coffee was ready at 6:00a and last night's group assembled around 7:30a for a breakfast of egg and vegetable burritos, sweet rice, homemade sausage, juice, and bread with apple butter - an amazing feast. After community clean up, I began my hike to Pearisburg; Breeze and the boys hiked the same as me but with a little later start. Pace shuttled them which allowed for re-provisioning in town. Smooth and Ninja had planned on some resupply as well and were to set off south toward Damascus later in the day.

I was back at the hostel with M around 2:30p and we were able to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Michael and Neville were cutting and tossing wood near the farm lane for use in the furnace designed to efficiently heat water for use in the house from the tap but also to heat the house through a forced-air heat exchanger. As dinner approached M and I helped prepare since the other folks were busy in town and made it back just before dinner. Dinner was vegetable stir-fry with meat on the side that they had butchered themselves, brown rice, a delicious brown sauce, and, of course The Bread. Ice cream cones followed. The other hikers did the clean up and we also prepared for breakfast the next morning: got to soak that French toast overnight. After a little social time in the living area, all again found their bunks, sated beyond description.

Neville's amazing kitchen prowess

Breeze and The Captain

Neville, Blondie, and Cool Blue

Pace and Breeze

Michael and Neville

Friday's breakfast was French toast, with fruit and yogurt topping, bacon, and scrambled eggs, juice, and, The Bread with apple butter for those who could find room. All were present and stuffed save Pace who had to leave early to catch his Roanoke flight. Breeze was limping a bit from a foot injury and decided to take a "zero" day (no miles hiked) to rest up and the three boys decided to stay with. They planned to help out with the wood tossing and movement of lumber for the shower house and hike out on Saturday. We left around 9:30a for our trip back to Richmond after 6 days on the road, but well rested from our stay at WHH in the care of Michael and Neville: another wonderful experience. I was so glad to be able to close the gap in my long section and couple that with some more time on the farm with M in tow.

The Hike

Foggy, wet, and leaf covered

Starting to clear

We knew the weather would be dicey on Thursday and awoke to spitting rain, fog, and wind. I assembled my minimal gear (slack packing since I was only carrying water, some food bars, and some first aid stuff, not my full backpack for long distance treks), M drove me up the ½ mile up the steep gravel road to the AT trailhead above WHH. She dropped me off about 9:00a and I was ready to go. In my enthusiasm I failed to remember just how close the trail was to a Y intersection where she turned around to drive back down the mountain, and before I could get my hiking sticks adjusted to the right length, I walked right by it. My scrambled brain kept me walking the road for far too long before I knew I had missed it. Cursing as I turned around I made my way back until I spied the trailhead a mere 10 yards from the intersection. Bad start, bad attitude. But once on the trail and headed to the ridge crest, I regained my equanimity and I was happy to be back on the trail and looking forward to 10 miles of rainy, cold, blowing conditions. There was never a downpour but enough rain to soak my trail runners (my nemeses) within an hour. I was wearing polypropylene sock liners which kept the wet wool from abrading my feet as happened in the past. Good call.

Doc's Knob, my first stop

An intimate setting

Since I was slack packing I made exceptional time hitting Dock's Knob shelter within the hour, hiked the crest for about 2 hours and took another hour to descend into Pearisburg. After my last hike I had an existential awakening courtesy of Neville at WHH. I did not enjoy my last hike and needed to  rethink why was I doing this. I had planned on stopping each hour of the trip and spending about 10 minutes just listening and pondering what was actually happening around me at that particular moment. That worked pretty well at Doc's Knob under shelter, but once fully on the ridge I needed to keep moving just to stay warm. I estimated the wind from the west across the ridge at 30 mph at times and though I had three layers including my rain jacket as a good windbreak and a meaningful sweat going, stopping would have been a chilling experience. 

Colorful tunnel along the ridge crest

White out over the valley

So I pushed on to Angel's Rest and then just down the ridge into the lee of the mountain was able to sit for a bit and take in the beauty of the New River Valley. The day started to clear as I approached Angel's Rest, so the setting was near perfect for a bit of rest and contemplation.

Almost clear skies

Following is a video from my perch on Angel's Rest. Because my camera has a sound feature for wind noise reduction the audio fades at bit (I'm still learning), but what I had to say was not as important as the view.

I called M to come get me and then proceeded down some steep, rocky sections, mixed with tamer, wandering switchbacks and met her at Cross Ave just west of Pearisburg and Rt 100, our path back to WHH.

Neville's map for M

Now I must be honest, I did not hike the 0.4 miles from Cross Ave. to Lane St. where I officially ended a section hike in the early part of this year, but I adhere to the philosophy that if you take an alternate path in the vicinity of the trail that is at least as long as the AT, you have done the miles. From Lane Street, I had walked 0.8 miles to the Food Lion, where my truck was parked, so I had covered more miles earlier and Cross Ave. was a very convenient place for her to pick me up.

I was exhilarated to get back on the trail even for a few miles, and though foggy and wet there was ample beauty to behold which I did. Though I maintained a quicker pace for the day  than usual due to a nearly weightless pack and even terrain, I very much enjoyed the outing and found myself drawing close to the surroundings. One significant reason for the exhilaration was knowing that I was closing the gap on a long section on the third attempt. I know I have a bit of an achiever complex that Neville is helping me with, so bear with my boast: I have hiked from Damacus, VA (southern extreme of the AT in VA to Mt Holly Springs, PA 50 miles into that state, for a total section of 641.2 miles. My southern section from Fontana Dam (west entrance to the Smokies) to Sams Gap, TN is 150.9 miles for a total of 792.1 miles of the AT (36%). I still have a long way to go, but I am making progress. I do not want this adventure to be just a numbers game, so on my next long hike my plan will include some facet other than just pounding out the miles. Thanks Neville.