Side Trail: Standing Bear Farm, Hartford, TN

When: July 11 - 12, 2013 

(during my second outing in the Smokies)

Where: Standing Bear Farm (SBF) 

4255 Green Corner Road

Hartford, TN 37753

(423) 487-0014

Located a few 100 yards off the AT north of the Pigeon River and I-40.

Weather: partly cloudy, breezy, cool evenings, a few sprinkles of rain, most comfortable.

Elevation: 1830 feet

While I and some other hikers were hanging out with Billy, the ATC Ridge Runner, at the Cosby Knob Shelter, we discussed what our hiking plans were for the next few days. I had planned on hiking down to the Davenport Gap Shelter, a mere 7 miles away. Billy described the shelter in detail; not a pretty picture compared to the other shelters I had used in the GSMNP. He asked if we knew of the SBF, which I did not; some of the others in the shelter were aware of the place. He highly recommended it, both in comparison to staying in the shelter and on its own merits as an essential part of the trail experience. Phil, Mike, Adam and I all decided that would be the next stop.

In all of my section hiking so far, I had not taken advantage of any hiker hostels, those places close enough to the trail so hikers could experience a respite from the rigors of outdoors life. These places vary from near B&B status in some towns to small campground areas with a few more facilities than an AT shelter or campsite near a spring or stream would offer. So this was going to be something new for me. Since I have been going out on hikes for a week or less, the idea of needing to take some time off the trail was not part of my calculus. Having endured two days of rain and knowing there were conveniences like a clothes dryer and hot shower on site proved too much to resist. And knowing that I would definitely be spending some more time with a few people I met on the trail was more agreeable.

I will state at the outset that going there was one of the most satisfying experiences I have had on the trail so far, not so much because it was a break from hiking (I just stayed there instead of a shelter 3 miles back) but a delving into a part of the AT culture that was unique. Upon my arrival around 1:30p on Thursday, I found myself in a place with people that would resonate with my soul.

Entrance from Green Corner Road

As I strolled into the farm between the bunkhouse (on right) and the cabin (on left) I was met by Hawk, a Sioux indian, who helped out around the place. He gave me the 50 cent tour during which I met Maria, one of the owners, and Rocket Man, the hostel manager. It was like old home week with the telling of where you are from and what you are doing. Connections were made quickly: Rocket had lived near Petersburg, VA just south of home in Richmond. I was in love with the place and people immediately. The tour acquainted me with all the facilities available to hikers to make our stay comfortable and enjoyable.

First was the collection of buildings around a central courtyard with fire ring and some other features. Those buildings consisted of the bunkhouse, kitchen/dining area, laundry, and communication center (with beer fridge).

Bryce, Zach, and Rocket Man

Bryce and Zach were a couple of boys from Memphis that had come east to hike in the Smokies beginning at Fontana Dam (where I started Phase 1 of my trek in April) where they  were completely rained out in two days. Bryce had been to the SBF before so they bailed the trail and had shown up a little before me that morning. They were college-aged boys who were between adult life decisions and just wanted to do some trail before engaging worldly responsibilities. The trail is a form of escapism, no doubt. Just staying at SBF allows one to escape the modern world (to some extent) and experience the feel of life 100 years ago on a farm in a mountain hollow (pronounced holler). The building behind the boys is the back of the bunkhouse with a fine sitting porch. Tobacco basket lids made for a subtle screen.

First on the right is the kitchen/dining area with its wide double-door entrance. Inside on the left is the cooking area with sink, three burner gas unit, shelves with eating utensils, plates and such, a microwave and pizza oven. A hiker box was full of food related items and the shelves also had an assortment of spices and condiments. Now in some places one might be suspect of using these things but on the trail just because something is open (for who knows how long) does not mean it should be avoided. Blind faith in the folks that left stuff releases one to enjoy what is there. The only rule was to clean up after yourself.

The eating area was across the room with book shelves loaded with literature placed there in exchange for taking something away. Hikers do not like to carry stuff so being able to drop off a book and pick up another works well. The radio was tuned to classic rock more than likely to satisfy Rocket Man's penchant for music from his colorful past.

Just to the left within the same structure is the laundry room, replete with two tubs, wash board, a crank wringer (old fashioned) and a modern electric dryer. On a shelf beside the dryer was a big stack of large towels for use by guests for showering or whatever. Hawk made sure that this stack was more than sufficient for our needs. I used the laundry to wash my clothes and I swear at some point in my life I did something like this with one of my grandmothers, but maybe I am just romanticizing. You could tell which folks had an understanding of the benefits of the wringer; my socks got dry much faster than those of folk who were not sure of its use. At one point some of us put our shoes in the dryer and the clunking alerted Rocket to advising us of a better option. He took us into the kitchen where the dryer exhaust hose (that spirally, aluminum, stretchy thing) had been put through the wall I suspect to push a little heat into the kitchen on cooler mornings. He pulled it out from under the counter, strategically placed a pair of shoes near the opening and let the rush of warm air push into the tops. Dry shoes or boots in less than an hour and who cared that the dryer was running empty?

Ever use a washboard?

Next on the tour across the entrance road were the canteen and the proprietors' house. Maria, Curtis, and family live there and are very much engaged in the daily happenings. When Hawk took me up to the canteen, Maria was in there restocking supplies. Once up the steps and into the hut, one finds dry goods on the left, sundries on the right along with a fridge and freezer to hold a welcome variety of stuff to eat, not gourmet, but as good as frozen can be.

Careful on those steps

Just about everything a hiker needs for resupply

Plenty of meal choices 

You might need something from here

There were three places to bed down: the bunkhouse housed 16, the cabin had two double beds and a ladder accessible loft with two twin sized mattresses, and a nearby camping area could accommodate many tents.

Opposite end of bunkhouse, boot planters on left

Sturdy bunks, with mattresses and pillows

Hank's space - sheets, pillowcases and blankets provided

Cabin with babbling brook running directly underneath

Just behind the cabin and across the brook were two buildings; shower on the right and Rocket Man's hidey-hole on the left. Behind and further to the left was the privy, not unlike those found elsewhere on the trail. A horseshoe pitch and vegetable garden bordered the brook with the road opposite.

Stone bridge across brook leading to shower and privy

So with the tour complete I could settle myself into this luxury. Phil and Mike, whom I met at the previous shelter were already installed in the cabin ($20 per person per night). Zach and Bryce were in the bunkhouse with me ($15 per person per night). These rates included use of all facilities, towels, sheets, the works. I drink diet soda at home, but such is not available on the trail, and when confronted with a fridge full of soda, I could not resist a diet Dr. Pepper, cold and refreshing. I spread out my stuff a bit on an upper bunk since Rocket did not expect an overflow in the bunk house (I can only imagine what the place was like when the bulk of thru-hikers came through). I took advantage of the shower and then in a leisurely way hung out around the courtyard, waiting for the laundry space to become available. I had not stopped for lunch on the way over, so I decided to prepare one of my own meals in the convenient kitchen space. Pasta Sides ($1 at Walmart) are great trail food and do not really need to be cooked if you are willing to wait long enough for the boiled water to hydrate the noodles, but with a burner available I was able to follow the package instructions even adding some garlic laced olive oil and Italian seasoning from the shelf above. I added a tuna packet and let the whole mess (at least two servings) mellow while a grabbed another soda. When a guest arrives they are given an envelope on which they are requested to list all the items they take from the canteen with the price so that settling up is easy upon departure. Honor system. Two sodas topped my list. During the afternoon Adam from the shelter arrived and found a place in the bunkhouse. At bit later Ben, a recent high school graduate from Greensboro, NC strolled into the farm and that ended up being the full group for the night.

No safe harbor for pack raiding critters here

No less than three cats and a dog added a genuine country feel, but the cats have responsibilities for pest control. Biscuit, a Doberman-Beagle mix, was petite, spry and friendly, always looking for a tummy rub.

The rest of the day and evening was spent just hanging out with the folks who were there; Rocket was ever present, with a plethora of colorful stories to entertain us. He is the glue that holds the place together. He strolled in two years ago on a hike and never left. Hawk was restive, quiet and busy, taking care of his various chores, but disappearing from time to time to indulge in other pastimes. Maria, Curtis and a daughter, I think, could be spied on their front porch from time-to-time when visiting the canteen. At various times someone would wander up to the canteen for some vittles. Later, after my large mid-afternoon meal, I grabbed a frozen burrito from the freezer and following Rocket's instructions, nuked it to warm the insides, and then toasted it in the pizza oven. Pretty good for frozen. Later Ben was still hungry but that DiGornio pizza was more than he could handle so we shared it. Bryce decided he wanted a fire in the courtyard so we scared up some barely dry wood and the boys got some coals afire. Other damper wood was added that smoked for a bit then caught fire. As the glomming approached all were either sitting around the fire, lodged on the porch of the bunkhouse, or stretched out on one of those double beds in the cabin. Around 10:00p Rocket had the radio turned down and some folks wandered off to their beds. I used the light in the dining area to read for a bit and then found my bunk. What a great night's sleep. Cushy mattress, fresh sheets, warm blanket, quiet night with babbling brook to serenade us to sleep. Near paradise.

Since I only had 7 miles or so to the next shelter I stayed at the farm until almost 11:00a just hanging with the boys. Phil and Mike departed early for a 20 mile day; they wanted to make Hot Springs the next day so they had miles to cover to make that possible. Phil was a teacher from Raleigh, NC, so we were able to chat about education a bit. Mike was from everywhere and was just working on his thru-hike. They both started at Springer, but Phil was exiting the trail at Damascus to get back home in time for the start of the fall term. Mike had no other plans. Being behind the main group of thru-hikers he would likely flip his hike by going to Maine and hiking south before the weather would prevent New England activity.

Phil and Mike

I was up early before anyone, made coffee and read for an hour or so before the rest of the farm awoke. Zach showed first and we chatted about his life, plans, music, and other stuff. One aspect of trail culture is the lack of pretentious talk. The trail binds people together so there is a welcome shortage of BS in conversation. You can get down to the important stuff of life pretty quickly without having to wade though conventional pleasantries. Fresh eggs were available in the fridge (from the farm) so a cooked up three of them, again seasoned with options from the shelf. Later as a snack I had a toasted sausage, egg, and cheese croissant, a la Jimmy Dean. I really did not want to leave and all the remaining guys decided to kick it there for at least another day. As I packed my gear, four of them were sitting around the porch on the bunkhouse just chatting it up. I really liked being with these guys and the local farm folk for the last 20 hours and would like to have stayed longer, but I was on a schedule to meet M at Max Patch the next day so I had to move on. I suspect that I will find my way back there at some point being that it is only about 90 minutes from Asheville, where we find ourselves visiting family.

Hank gets a cuddle

Pensive Zach

Barefoot Ben - tough feet

Rocket and Mike - sharing similar life experiences

Reflections: I am so thankful that I did not miss this diamond in the rough. I will retain fond memories of this place even though my stay was short. I plan to be more cognizant of hostels along the trail and the opportunities they may present. And most of all I highly recommend anyone who finds themselves in the vicinity to take advantage of what the Standing Bear Farm has to offer.