Saturday, June 8, 2013

Side Trail: Lazy Fox Inn, Damascus, VA

What: 48 hours at the Lazy Fox Inn (B&B)
Where: Damascus, VA
When: May 27 - 29, 2013
Why: Celebrate, Rest, Eat, Wander, Prepare
When we were in AL, I had planned on having M drop me off in Damascus on the way home so I could begin a 12-day hike north to Pearsiburg, VA and I was packed and ready to go. Damascus is one of the few trail towns on the AT, meaning that the trail actually goes directly through the town, a boon to hikers looking for a respite. The day before we left AL I was feeling a bit melancholy and after some reflection put my finger on its source. After a memorable week away from home I was set to spend another two weeks away and that just did not feel right. I wanted to be able to reflect with M about the past week and also, she was finishing up her last year at the preschool, so there were several events I would miss if I hit the trail. So even with backpack ready we sailed right past Abingdon, VA and the Damascus exit on I-81 and never looked back. The following two weeks were quite enjoyable: a little time in Orange, some school events, lounging around the house, a few projects, etc.

So, what about that hike? Well, after a little thought, I decided to suggest to M that we take a few days after Memorial Day to get away. Damascus was my target since I wanted to start my hike there and after a little Internet search came upon the Lazy Fox Inn (LFI), a B&B near the heart of Damascus. I made the reservation with Ginny and we were set for Monday to Wednesday after the Memorial Day Weekend. I took all my gear (35#) so that when she returned to Richmond on Wednesday, I could just walk the one block from the LFI to the main drag in Damascus which just happens to be the AT. On Monday we headed southwest.
When we were trying to find the place, I got turned around on my mental map and a denizen of Damascus after being quizzed about the location of the LFI, hopped in her car and said, "Follow me." That was a gracious introduction into Damascus society. 
We arrived mid-afternoon and found the place deserted, so we set out on a little exploration to get our bearings. We found the surroundings of the LFI to be very amenable to our desire for a quiet get-a-way. Most notable was the creek/river behind the house that was very reminiscent of Spring Creek in Hot Springs, NC where we spend many summer weeks on its banks at the Lippard homestead, lulled into a euphoric state by the continuous sound of rushing water.
Two wooden swings graced the space near the water and I soon found that to be my reading/meditating spot. Glorious. The VA Creeeper Trail, a rails-to-trails endeavor also runs through Damascus, beginning somewhere in Abingdon, and extending all the way to White Top Station., some 34 miles east. So we spent some time down at a park near the river and the trails.



David (Ginny's son visiting from Lynchburg) called us to let us know they were back from shopping, so we headed back to the Inn. After settling into the Fireplace Room upstairs with adjoining, but shared bath, we decided to enjoy some hors d'oeuvres on the gazebo attached to the rear deck. We then left to get some local BBQ at a place we spied on our first outing. We brought it back to the Inn and enjoyed a quiet and satisfying repast on the other side of the house overlooking the river and back garden. We engaged in some conversation with David and Ginny as well as a father and daughter from Durham, NC on a three day visit to the area. Then off to bed and a good sleep.

In the morning at 6:30a I found David and Ginny in the kitchen putting together a mammoth breakfast feast that I had read about in an online review, but most accommodatingly a pot of fresh-brewed coffee. With cup and book in hand I found my way down to the swings. M came  out a little later and then we responded to the chow bell at 8:00a. Breakfast included juice, scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, biscuits, sausage gravy, pancakes, fresh fruit, cheese grits, and peach cobbler (am I forgetting something?). Delicious.
Shaded Deck
A Brace of Ducklings
Gazebo on left
The morning was spent chilling around the deck and river and we had some leftover lunch from our trip the previous day. Water fowl were also a main attraction on the river and bank. There were lots of ducks and some geese. After that we made our way over to Abingdon to see some sights. Unfortunately, the Barter Theatre was not performing (who would on the day after a packed Memorial Day schedule), so we missed that (another time maybe). We did enjoy a little walk-about but the day proved a bit warmer in the sun. We enjoyed visiting the Holston Mountain Artisans, consortium of local and regional arts and crafts folk, which had much interesting items on display and for sale. We then drove out into the country to White's Mill to investigate the surroundings and secure some local stone ground corn meal, but alas, the beginning of the week does not offer much traffic, so the shop and mill were closed until the weekend. O well, it was a delightful drive. Already missing our little piece of paradise in Damascus, we drove back and spent the rest of the afternoon in quiet relaxation. We repeated our hors d"oeuvre routine and then hoofed it over the the Blue Blaze Cafe for two monster salads; we could have shared one. The greens were fresh and the dressing tasty. Afterward we drove out to Inn in the Country for some "real" ice cream.
In the Country
Now the entire time we were in Damascus, there were hikers about, some in the shops and eateries, others congregating in front of the numerous outfitters or the laundromat. The Creeper Trail and AT are major attractions and bring tourist bucks into this apparently sleepy little town. Just a week past 10,000 trail enthusiasts descended on Damascus for the annual Trail Days, a period of time when many thru-hikers should be this far north from Georgia. Cyclists were also in abundance since the Creeper Trail is as or more conducive to two-wheel travel since it was graded for a railway. I love being in contact, even tangentially, with this out-of-doors culture.

Early to bed and early to rise to another feast; pancakes were substituted with French toast. I packed in as much as I could knowing that shortly I would be on the trail. After some farewells M took off for Richmond and I strolled up to Laurel Avenue, and headed east on the trail, my destination was a shelter 10 miles away.
I am ready to go
Reflections: I am so glad the melancholy feeling delayed my hike and that M and I were able to enjoy those last two weeks in May together in Richmond, because among other things that decision enabled our Damascus trip. We so much appreciated the LFI, the people and surroundings, and to top that off it was the best deal by far. Get this: for M and me to spend two nights and enjoy that marvelous breakfast twice cost a mere $150, amazingly reasonable. The time was also a great setup for my hike which began under sunny skies and moderate temperatures.

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