New Trail: Daleville, VA to Buena Vista, VA

James River Background

Date: May 20 - 25, 2012

Who: Hank and an assortment of Northbound thru-hikers and some section hikers

Where: Daleville, VA (Rt 220) to the Long Mountain Wayeside, 10 m east of Buena Vista, VA on Rt. 60

Weather: Mostly sunny, pleasant days, cool nights, rain one day, ended warm.

Length: 78 m (D1 - 5, D2 - 20, D3 - 17, D4 - 12, D5, - 12, D6 - 12)

Elevation: Daleville (1200'), Apple Orchard Mtn. (4000'), James River Footbridge (600'), Bluff Mtn. (3500'), Pedlar River Bridge (1000'), Long Mtn. Wayside (2200')

This is longest hike since the boy and I trekked at the Philmont Scout Ranch some 20 years ago. So much has changed with regard to equipment and fitness. We carried 45 lb. external frame packs (loaded), wore scout uniforms, had only walking sticks we picked up, and leather ankle boots. Now I hiked with an internal frame pack at just about 30 lbs. (loaded), synthetic everything on my body, save those light merino wool socks, amazing trekking poles and trail runners. I am also more fit than I have ever been in my life which makes this a viable operation. Most of my hikes the past year have been solitary adventures, meaning that I did not plan to travel with other folk though I expected to meet some on the trail or in a car giving me a ride. I considered these training hikes: going a bit longer each time, adjusting gear, learning about my capabilities and hiking style, becoming acquainted with AT lore. On my last hike with S&J (Maryland) the experience was different, since we basically stayed in a close group for the entire stretch, adjusting our individual paces to a community match. Being with them was such a bonus in terms of the experience.

This hike basically represents the beginning of my next phase, what I call long-distance hiking which is going out for a week or weeks at a time and covering close to and in excess of 100 miles at a time. Now the trail looks pretty much like many of the other parts of the trail I have hiked in VA and NC, so commenting on its characteristics is redundant and pictures can tell that story. There were some serious ascents and descents as well as some lovely level paths and views, but now these do no make much difference because long-distance hikers just get up in the morning and take (and enjoy) whatever challenge the mountain has in store for them that day regardless of how arduous the trail or how miserable the conditions (for example, pouring rain) because they have their sights set beyond today's hike, in some cases 2200 miles and 6 months from now. One would wonder how someone can sustain themselves with the rigors of an Appalachian Trail Thru-Hike from Georgia to Maine (or the reverse). On this hike I got a glimpse of what makes it possible and what can make it such a phenomenal experience. The God of the Universe created us to be in relationship to him and each other:  a relationship (love) is the only truly transcendent aspect of life; all the rest just decays and dies, while the soul lives on forever, always longing to be in relation to another and, especially to the One who created us in the first place.

Dan and Hank

And so it was the people I hiked, ate, slept, laughed, struggled, talked, and shared with that made this adventure so different and I could tell countless stories of our time together within those few short days. Most were young college-age kids on thru- or long section hikes. There were a few older section hikers like myself who were out for a week. One young man, Dan from Georgia (he does not have a real trail name yet), and I showed up at the same shelter on my first night out and for the next 4 nights we shared shelter as well and throughout my section I so much enjoyed getting to know him and his other buddies. Dan is a 20-year old upcoming junior at the University of Georgia and was section hiking from Pearisburg, VA up to Calendonia State Park in PA (450 miles). A very mature young man with a deep voice, taciturn demeanor, inquisitive eyes, and a heart of gold. He was the consistent part of my trek; we did not hike the same hike, meaning that we did not hike together during the day. I religiously got up early and was out of the shelters before others. Two phrases I picked up last week were "You've got to hike your own hike" and "See you down the trail." The younger and more vigorous hikers tend to pace themselves faster than I and exert themselves to a higher level and, therefore, have to rest more often. I attempt to hike at a pace regardless of terrain so that I do not get "out of breath" and yet maintain a heart rate well into the aerobic training range for someone my weight and age. I told one person on the trail that as ugly as I was if I were hiking such that I had to gasp for breath with my mouth open I would scare the fur off any bear I would encounter. So, slow and steady is my style, which means that nearly everyone would pass me on the uphill but when I arrived at their rest spot they would be sprawled about sweating and recovering and say, "Hey, you made it" and then to each other, "Look at him: he is not even breathing hard and he doesn't sweat either (not true)." I find this pacing much more enjoyable, though I have to resist  prideful over-exertions when around other hikers. The trail community activity was in the shelters, those lean-to affairs spaced every 10 to 15 miles along the trail, so here are brief accounts of each evenings' rest.

James, Jenna, Rael, Dan

Fullhart Shelter - I parked my truck at Long Mtn, on Sunday morning about 10:30a, got a quick ride over to I-81 with George, Bertie, and grandson Brodie who had just spent the weekend with their daughter and boyfriend who were on a thru-hike. I then waited 2.5 hours in the hot sun for a pickup. Walt from SC took me down to Daleville and I started late at 3:00p, my schedule for the day already blown. I had hoped to do 11 m but would settle for 5 into the shelter. Met J&J who were waiting for Rael from NJ whom I had passed on the trail up. They had thru-hiked together in '08. Dan showed a bit later and we shared the shelter. In order to shed weight M made me a fleece sleep sack half as heavy as my down bag, but it let me down on night one when the temp dropped into the low 50s. I'd say it is rated for temps about 60+.

Cove Mtn. - I got out early and hiked the 20 m to this shelter pretty much in solitude. I passed Crush, a student at Brown, beside a creek and later he rested at the shelter and then pushed on trying to catch up with his buddies. Lonnie was already at the shelter and when Dan arrived we talked during a thunderstorm about a wide range of subjects, from God to restaurants. Hikers tend to bypass this shelter since it has no water source but I planned ahead.

Thunder Hill - I had originally planned to finish this hike on Thursday but that would have required me at this point to hike 23 m today, 19 tomorrow and 12 on the last day. I arrived at the shelter after 17 m to find John and Brian, a pair of section hikers with lots of experience. I was debating hiking the additional miles when they asked me what was the hurry? I had told M that I might not finish until Friday, so decision time was upon me. I opted for adding a day to my trek to lessen the number of miles per day needed to finish on Friday and actually follow their plan since they were leaving the trail at the same point as I. This means we would be bumping against each other for the next couple of days. So now I had some luxurious chill time in the shelter with these other folk. I asked a bunch of questions about gear and hiking and got an earful from this loquacious pair. Today I encountered Hat and Bogie, Crush (again), Wolf, and a guy from Annapolis, MD who was on a section hike southbound. He was so obnoxious (and knew it) that he had decided to hike against the flow of the other northbound hikers so he would not have to deal with the same people who would be loathe to find him at the next shelter. He talked a lot and mostly about himself. Others being gracious and accepting wandered off to sleep in their various abodes. He characterized a long distance hike like this: you wake up, you eat, you sh*t in a hole (love those privies at the shelters), you hike, you eat, you hike, you eat, you sleep, you wake up, you... I believe there is a bit more to it than that but he covered the basics.

Golden, Dan, and Medicine Man (kilt)

Matt's Creek - I got out a little later this morning, about 7:30a but still ahead of everyone else. There would be a serious uphill and I wanted to get some miles behind me. Now one of the downsides to being the first out is that fact that there will be fresh spider webs across the trail with a much greater frequency than you can imagine and for some reason spidey likes to string a bunch of them about head level which, if you can also imagine, is quite annoying: they stick your face and glasses and tickle just enough to require a swipe of a hand attached to a trekking pole, no small feat as you are pounding away at the trail. At this point I do not have a trail name, usually a name is attached to a hiker by others because of some distinctive  characteristic or a trail mishap, but if I were to choose I would call myself "Webcatcher." Dan and I arrived at the shelter after a 12 m hike about the same time at 2:30p to a gorgeous setting: babbling creek, warm but pleasant temperatures since the humidity was moderate, birds singing, but otherwise quiet. We both unrolled our sleeping pads and stretched out; I did not sleep but that hour was the most peaceful I had experienced so far on the trail. Then something quite remarkable and yet not expected happened. We heard some folks coming down the trail from across the creek (John and Brian were already in residence at the tent site) and as they traversed the creek Dan looked up and this spritely young waif called out with heightened enthusiasm, "Hey guys, it's Dan from Georgia!" and her companions began to whoop it up as if they were the dearest of friends who had not seen each other for years. Needless to say Dan came alive; these were some of his hiking buddies who had gone into town a couple of days before when Dan did not and were now catching up. A slew of kids flowed in and the place was awash is well-wishing and catching up. I just sat, listened, and soaked up the trail love. The evening was full of talking, sharing, eating, playing, sorting out stuff, and making decisions about how much to hike in the coming days. Golden, the trail name of the girl so excited to see Dan was a delight as were the others; she, Dan, Medicine Man, and I shared the 6 person shelter. The others tented in various places.

Kids around the fire

Punchbowl - Out early again because I would be hiking 12 m down into the James River basin, a long and steep descent, then back up the steepest climb so far to Bluff Mtn. and onto the shelter. The kids were coming out early so they were just a bit behind. They caught up to me after the James River and we leap-frogged a couple of times on the way up. During one stretch when I was hiking just behind a group containing Dan, Golden, and Wildflower we were discussing various family situations and Golden remarked that her grandparents lived in a retirement community in Asheville, NC. This piqued my interest since my mother-in-law lives in a similar situation. After a few exchanges we realized that they actually lived in the same housing unit at Deerfield. At the top of Bluff Mtn. there was mobile phone service so I called my MIL and, sure enough, she knew the grandparents and was confident she would she them that evening at dinner. How's that for a coincidence: someone I randomly met on the AT and shared a shelter with the night before was connected in another way to me that I would never have imagined. It then began to rain in earnest so we all hightailed it down the mountain to the shelter. Some of the kids pushed on desiring to go into Buena Vista to meet up with some other trail buddies while the rest of us settled into the shelter for what would be my last night on the trail. Thru-hikers do not usually engage in massive fire-building on the trail: too tired and too much wood gathering required. At Punchbowl a large pile of fallen wood that was relatively dry was discovered not to far away and in order to discourage insects (there was a reasonably sized pond adjacent to the shelter and tent sites) a sizable fire was ignited. Much more camaraderie pervaded the evening but all got quiet around 9:00 except for the bullfrogs, peepers, and not so familiar bird calls.
Long Mountain Wayside - At this point I was feeling the draw of home and family; we had planned a Memorial Day weekend at Pied-a-Terre with the girls, their guys, and a few cousins, so I was looking forward to finishing and getting over there to help M get things ready. I had 12 m to my truck and I was feeling as energetic and strong as ever. I was out by 6:00a and Friday was glorious but tending warmer. I relished those concluding miles and the impending euphoria that occurs when one reaches trail's end. I realize that with resupply I could have physically kept on hiking, day after day, until I ran out of trail. But I have other things I like to do as well as backpack, so spending months on end away from those I love and my comfortable retirement life is not something I long to do. A week or two sounds about right, and that's long enough for me to hike enough serious section miles to be able to finish the entire AT at some point.

More Pictures (by the by, all pictures in my blogs are clickable to full size)

Dan, Golden, Wildflower

DK and friend

Is that underwear drying?

Trail head in Daleville

They are still around

Adjacent to Blue Ridge Parkway

Lily of the Valley

Spidey is busy

The Guillotine - How long has that rock been there?

The Mighty James

AT Footbridge across the James

More Spidey on the bridge

Rest Area

Water abounds 

Reflections: I enjoyed myself immeasurably, learned some stuff, felt good, had no new pains, could have gone on longer, saw some beautiful sights, and engaged another world and community unique to this footpath; I am all the better for the experience. I may rejoin the Dan group in PA when they get there in a couple of weeks and hike with them for a few more days just to extend the magic. My sights are set on an even longer hike south of Daleville and one through the Smoky Mtn. Nat. Park after a visit to Asheville, NC and a summer mission trip to  the Cherokee Nation southwest of there.

Side Trail to Home - Maybe?

Monday, May 14, 2012, 11:20am, Pacific Daylight Time. "Hank, there is smoke in the cabin, and I can smell it!", so says M a few minutes after take-off from the Palm Springs Airport on the Monday after our wonderful week celebrating the nuptials of the boy and his mate and hanging out with our expanded family (the circle is bigger). "Ladies and gentlemen, this is Captain _______, I just wanted to let you know that the crew are aware of the smoke in the cabin and we will be returning to the Palm Springs airport." After a little bit of nail-biting and hand-holding we were safety back on the ground. A day that began with an early and uneventful first shuttle and subsequent departure of two of the kid couples from the airport, now turned, let's say, a bit challenging. 

We and the last of the kid couples had arrived, checked-in, and waited to board expecting to arrive home sometime late in the evening on Monday on the East Coast. The short of it is that after some chaos regarding whether the original plane would fly (no), when would a replacement aircraft arrive from LAX (much later), should we switch to another airline (we did), we found ourselves on a series of three connecting flights to Phoenix, Charlotte (red-eye), and Richmond with an arrival on Tuesday morning at 9:00am. We departed around 6:30pm from Palm Springs and had a relatively pleasant trip home, especially since we scored two seats on the red-eye in an exit row with so much leg room we could have danced the night away. Tuesday ended up being a blur and M stayed out of school and extra day. I spent the rest of the week trying to figure out what day it was and never succeeded.

We were not the only travelers that day with a delay.  The kid couple headed for DC also had some equipment problems: during the chaos surrounding our flight and the time spent with them somehow the jet way collided with the cabin door of their departing aircraft and bent the mechanism that secures the door in the open position, which is essential in case of an emergency. The door would close properly, but that was not enough to proceed. During the several hours that mechanic spent attempting a repair (which never succeeded), more chaos ensued as those now delayed travelers try to find a way out of Palm Springs with limited options. Our kid couple opted for a cab ride to LAX and then a red-eye directly to Dulles and another cab ride over to National to nab their vehicle from the car park. They each also lost a day of school and had to make a different re-entry into their NoVA world.

Reflections: I have delayed posting this to distance these events from the amazing week in Palm Springs so not to rob those days of their significance with something pretending to be dramatic. I do not think the "smoke in the cabin" was a big deal; there was never a sense of a loss in power or control of the aircraft and by the time we had landed, most of it had dissipated. As soon as the plane landed and taxied to the end of the runway, emergency personnel and vehicles surrounded the plane. When there appeared to be no fire (I assume), the captain taxied the plane to another jet way and we exited through it with haste carrying no belongings. Later we re-entered the plane to collect our belongings and our checked bags were unloaded, the sure sign we were not going back on that plane, which I would have been hesitant to board anyway. So, did our lives flash before us? No. Did we have a sinking feeling in our stomachs? Yes, primarily due the to a series of quick banking turns and a rapid descent to the airport, but there probably was an element of impending doom affecting us. Did we have sweaty palms? Yes, but who knows if that were some internal panic or just some serious hand-holding. Did we breathe easier once on terra firma? Yes, I may have held my breath for a few minutes on descent; who could remember? I do remember distinctly when we exited the jet way and saw the kid couple with mildly distressed looks on their faces that I could not utter any kind of greeting, and when the youngest daughter hugged me and asked what happened I could barely croak out, "There was smoke in the cabin" and squeezed her a little bit tighter and longer than usual with moist eyes. I also remember that for several hours I found my self occasionally taking a deep breathe and blowing it out along with whatever pent up tension needed to be released and giving M an appreciative look and a gentle hand-squeeze just make sure we were still there together.

Side Trail to the Desert: Mother's Day

Mom and Daughters

So it's Mother's Day and since all the kids are together, let's make a day of it. It has been about 20 years since M had all her chicks in one place to celebrate M-day; a rare occasion due to the distance between the east and west coasts. But not this year. The east coast kids wanted to do take in some of the sights now that the big celebration was in the rear view mirror. Joshua Tree National Park is only about 45 minutes on the ridge in Yucca Valley, so we headed out about 7:00 am to beat the heat and to allow for some more hang time with the boy and his girl later in the day. On the way we fortified ourselves at John's Place with a good old-fashioned breakfast. This restaurant is an institution in the Yucca Valley and now we know why. We piled on 2 #2s, 3 #3s, and some toast for the one with the jelly belly.

Saving the World - One breakfast at a time

We spent about 3 hours at Joshua Tree, driving up to the Key's View where we could see all the notable peaks, the Desert Resort Communities, and the Salten Sea. We also walked the 1-mile loop trail in Hidden Valley while the atmosphere soared to the high 90s. But the coolest thing is how uninformed I am about the privileges of old age. As we approached the ranger station/park entrance I had prepared myself for purchasing a yearly pass ($80) since M and I had expected to be visiting some other National Parks within that period. As I waited for my car in queue to complete its business I noticed on the fee schedule something like a Senior Pass for $10. What's that I wonder as I thought about that 62nd birthday I had last summer. Boy did the ranger have a deal for me. She said: I am going to give you a great deal today; you are going to get a senior pass for a one-time $10 - that's right folks - this puppy is good for as long as I can hold out in this world, so long as I do not lose it. I told her I loved her, paid my $10, and into the park we went. 

Suck in those guts

On the way back through the valley we stopped at Subway for lunch and then Stater Bros. to pick up the vittles for an evening BBQ at, where else? the Brayfords. The boys like protein so a grill-fest was in the making. We went back to the Inn and as is our custom hung at the pool for a bit, then went over and finished the day as the 5-couple Micks/Brayford Clan altogether. Since tomorrow was the travel day we packed it in a bit early, but what a fitting end to a wonderful vacation, Mother's Day, extended family time, and celebration of a most significant event for our two and now one family.

In the kitchen

The "Adults?"

This is the way it is, Dad

Consultation

Watching the magic

What could make a mother happier? 

Hank & Oleg in the back yard

Love that boy

So the only thing left to do was pack it up, say our goodbyes, and go our separate ways: Portland, Baltimore, Springfield, and Richmond. I believe it is always easier for those who leave such a time together than it is for those who are left behind, but even though the Brayfords had to wave us all off, we all left a big chunk of our hearts with them in Desert Hot Springs.