Monday, August 15, 2011

A Northern Trail: 11 Days (and more) above the Mason-Dixon Line



M and I marked 40 years of marriage at the end of July with an anniversary trip. We decided earlier in the spring to be volunteer staff at a YL Camp in NY in August (next blog) which galvanized our summer plans. We then planned of a 11 day (7/27 to 8/6) adventure dans la voiture with our northernmost destination being Quebec City in the province of Quebec (which some say is in Canada and others say is a different country altogether; we'll see) to proceed our mission at camp. 
Day 1 to 3: Left Richmond for Lancaster County, PA; we had always wanted to visit the Amish Country, so we spent two nights near Bird-in-Hand. We enjoyed most traveling in the countryside and were overwhelmed by the magnitude of the farming enterprise - a tribute to the work ethic of those buggy-driving clans. Highlights included a mega-meal at a traditional Amish smorgasbord, a farm produce auction that was not on the tourist map (100s of Amish and otherwise buyers and sellers showing how farm produce moves from here to there in a hurry, horse-drawn wagons amid produce trucks and literally tons of produce), the best ice cream we have ever consumed at the Lapp Family Farm, the purchase of a new belt at the Village Harness Shop and a trip up to Lititz. That harness shop posted a sign out front, No Tourists, but John our host said to go in as long as you bought something. Amish owned and operated for 90 years with a fabricating shop in the rear with a ceiling mounted drive shaft out of the Industrial Revolution that powered the individual work stations by pulley and belt drives. To the unfamiliar eye they had everything needed for a life that appreciated and utilized horses as they were intended; the smell of leather and hardware was mesmerizing. I bought a sturdy brown leather belt for an extremely reasonable price but it will take a bit of breaking in. Lititz was a quaint town, home of the Wilbur Chocolate Company (we got more than samples). It was a bit rainy so we walked about a little and took refreshment at a local Pub and Cafe. Next morning we were off to Pulaski, NY at the eastern end of Lake Ontario to moderate the long trip north on I-81.

Day 3 to 4: Arrived at Rainbow Shores Hotel in rain to an amazing camp-like atmosphere. After the rain moderated we enjoyed sitting by the lake shore (a bluff) waiting for dinner (a delicious seafood platter) and an amazing sunset. Up early to an exquisite breakfast; we left well-fortified for our trip into Alexandria Bay, NY. We took the Scenic Highway to get the feel of the country alongside the lake, such as the Tibbet's Lighthouse.












Day 4 to 6: Arrived at the Channelsyde Motel just east of Alexandria Bay on the main channel of the St. Lawrence River. After a short rest we headed into town and took the long river cruise of the 1000 Islands scattered throughout the headwaters of the St. Lawrence River, a light dinner and a visit to an island park. We thoroughly enjoyed learning about this part of the world unknown to us until now. Next morning (our anniversary) being Sunday we worshipped at the local Episcopal Church (amazing architechture and craftsmanship as well as a welcoming and genuine community of faith). Then a morning trip to the Bolt Castle and another walk-about. We had a special dinner up on the bluff overlooking Sunken Island Lighthouse and the Bolt Castle. Up early the next morning for the longer trip to Sainte-Anne-de-la-Perade, the Tommy Cod ice fishing capital of the world.

Day 6 to 10: We again took the Scenic Highway south of the river and crossed over into Ontario, Canada from Ogdensburg on the US side. We bypassed a congested Montreal on the north over a ferry then through Oka, known for its Trappist Monastery which produces fragrant though delicious cheese (we got more than a sample). Back on the main highway in Quebec and onto our B&B. We spent the next four days exploring Quebec by visiting Quebec City, Trois-Rivieres, and Montreal. We enjoyed the cities but we know we are not urban folk so the small villages and byways were enjoyable in and of themselves. Few native English-speakers but we were graciously received and when language was a barrier the natives did all they could to welcome and guide us, so to us we experienced a warm and inviting place. A former colleague of mine from my engineering days lives in Montreal and his wife's father owns and runs the B&B were we stayed along the Ste. Anne River where it flows into the St. Lawrence. We received royal treatment in quiet and beautiful surroundings. The river is life in this part of Quebec and all revolves around it to some extent. In winter between December 26th and February 14th when the Ste. Anne River is frozen, hundreds of little houses are formed into a small town on the ice with light poles driven into the ice and stores offering their wares to comfort the thousands of ice fisherman (and a few women) who brave the cold (though the shacks are heated) to catch some of the massive numbers of Tommy Cod that live in that particular part of the river at that time of year. Some say that there is more interest in camaraderie and good cheer than fishing.
We took the scenic route into Montreal and were rewarded with magnificent river views and indigenous countryside. Our last day was in Montreal with my colleague, his daughter and wife. We strolled around the riverfront, did a little shopping, and had dinner in a trendy part of town. In the morning we were off again headed for the good ole USA.


Day 10 to 11: We enjoyed a lovely drive south of Montreal, across the border and down through Adirondack Park (we need to come back here someday) to Albany, NY. This was our transition day to wash clothes and car, and to reset ourselves for the drive tomorrow into Lake Champion near Glen Spey, NY. We stayed in an Econolodge for not much money, but it was fine and everything we needed was within a short distance including an eatery with a not so fancy name or exterior but wonderful food for a reasonable price: the end of an anniversary trip with lots more memories than I could possibly write here. We had a good plan (reasonable driving distances and expectations for how much we could experience in the time allotted) and we executed well, thanks as much to that fine driving machine of M's as anything else. We picnic well so lunch was usually anywhere that seemed pleasant and convenient. We met many delightful folk and experienced cultures and climes new to us while enjoying just being together. Life is good; living is better, especially when you have someone to share it with.





No comments:

Post a Comment