When: August 25 - 28, 2014 Where US 19E near Roan Mountain, TN to Indian Grave Gap, TN 395 Weather: 4 days of perfect weather, a bit cool the first two nights, no rain. Length: 42 miles southbound Elevation Changes: US 19E trailhead, 2897; Hump Mtn., 5587; Overmountain Shelter, 4654; Round Bald, 5826; Carver's Gap, 5512; Toll House Gap, 6217; Roan High Knob Shelter, 6285; Hughes Gap, 4040; Cherry Gap Shelter, 4012; Unaka Mtn., 5180, Indian Grave Gap, 3350. The accumulated ascent was 12,600 feet. So glad to be back on the trail after a long hiatus. Still tending home fires and, O by the way, home is now in Orange, VA. We sold and moved from our house of 31 years in the West End of Richmond, VA to the house my mom and dad lived in until they passed on. The move adventure is worth a separate blog post, but I am not sure I can do it right now, tender feelings and all. That adventure alone took up most all the time since my last outing. M planned to visit her mom in Asheville, NC and there is still a section of trail east of there toward Damascus,VA that I have not hiked. I chose a 42 mile section with good trail access. M dropped me off on Monday on the way there and picked me up on Thursday for the ride home.. Day 1: Since I was starting at about 1:00 pm, I planned to hike 9.2 miles to the Overmountain Shelter, which started with a significant ascent out of the gap at US 19E. I was soon up on the ridge that runs along the Roan Mountain massif, one of the longest chains of grassy balds on the planet (20 miles). With temperatures in the 70s on the ridge, the afternoon was extremely pleasant and I found myself into the shelter around 5:00 pm, a good pace for the first day out in months. There were very few people on the trail, so I expected I may spend the night in the shelter solo, but as I approached I heard the voices of Erica and Brian, a young couple from NJ, collecting firewood. They were accompanied by man's-best-friend Bruiser and were staying in the shelter as well. Conversation flowed around the campfire and into the evening, very sociable they were. Two other guys (quite experienced backpackers) showed a bit later and camped in a meadow just below the shelter, but their enthusiasm for being under the stars resulted in a soggy morning due to the massive dew; it might as well have rained on them.
Geology revealed
Afternoon view
Trail weaves across NC and TN border
One of many bald walks
Loads of mountain ridges to spy
Wildflowers at elevation
No lack of color
Some history
Delightful preview of shelter
Barn converted to shelter
View of Roaring Creek Valley from shelter
My gear spread out on platform
Bruiser, Brian, and Erica
Day 2: With only 7 miles to Roan High Top Shelter, I took a leisurely morning with coffee and cooked breakfast (freeze-dried breakfast skillet by Mountain House comes recommended) and socialized with the couple. I did plan on roaming the peaks near Roan High Top, so I wanted to leave some time. I strolled across the bald leading up to the peaks and near the top found myself in a dense spruce forest. Experiencing the change from hardwoods with a leaf strewn floor to the cool freshness of the evergreens was exhilarating. The fallen needles created a soft walking bed bordered by a few ferns. I walked past the shelter inadvertently (only a single post on the left, no signboard) and encountered an old chimney, a sure sign I had gone past. No problem since I had planned to go up anyway. I did experience some mild anxiety regarding stowing my pack while investigating. I thought at first I might leave it at the shelter but since I missed it I figured I would just find a place in the saddle between the two peaks at the top. There was public access at Toll House Gap with first-class restroom facilities: running water and a flush. I availed myself of a mini-wash down. I placed my pack behind a tree behind the restroom building and high-tailed it up to Roan High Bluff, all the way a little worried about what I would do if on my return, no pack in sight. The view from the well-developed bluff overlook (wood framed deck and railing) was worth the extra couple of miles on today's hike. There were many day hikers out today from Carver's Gap enjoying another sunny day with mild temperatures and low humidity. I retrieved my pack and headed back down the mile or so to the shelter and set myself up inside the log cabin with loft. I suspected this would be a mouse hotel, but I had decided not to bring my tent, so I would just have to deal. It was still just late afternoon, so I settled into my reading material (a re-read of C. S. Lewis's Chronicles of Narnia). Chris arrived a bit later, we chatted a bit and he decided to tent above the shelter. He departed and I did not see him again (must have been that eau de trail scent that surrounded me). I cooked up my dinner, another Mountain House meal, and settled into the shelter at hiker midnight (about 8:30 pm it got pretty dark). I did hang all my food and odor producing item in a bag from a tree outside, but the mice were determined to check out anything still in the shelter in hopes of a feast. One of them left me a souvenir in my white plastic drinking cup. On summer hikes I usually leave the zero-degree sleeping bag at home and carry a polyester fleece sleep sack M made for me, but with the mild weather and expected nighttime temps I opted for the warm bag - good idea. Around 11:30pm I heard some commotion outside (bear?) but the lights flashing through the door gaps indicated human presence. I opened up and found a youngish pack-laden couple taking the lie of the land. After a greeting and a welcome to the shelter if they so desired they opted for their tent. They did some food prep on the shelf outside, but I went right back to sleep with no bother. I expect they also knew too well that mice were in charge of this shelter. I may need to consider another approach to shelter use.
Panoramic View from Jane Bald
Marvelous Views from here
Spruce take over
Not so timid doe
Gear inside cabin/shelter
Quaint but mousy
View from Roan High Bluff overlook
Day 3: In order to stay on my 4 day, 3 night schedule I needed to hike 16 miles today. This meant about 8 hours of hiking not accounting for longer rest periods. I had a good plan because the trail followed a ridge with minimum elevation change. I was up before daylight and consumed a protein bar breakfast so that as soon as there was enough light I could head out. The day passed uneventfully among hardwoods with few views (I am beyond the bald stretch). I did take several substantial rests in order to resist the temptation to just pound out the miles as fast as I could to get to the shelter. Near the end of the day I encountered three day hikers, but otherwise no human contact. I did have one good view at Little Rock Knob; I forget how extensive these mountains are, ridge beyond ridge beyond ridge. I arrived at the shelter about 4:00p feeling good but tired and settled in for a night with no visitors. I had experienced no foot problems at all so far thanks to my latest version of foot care: well ventilated trail runners (no Gore-Tex), REI liner socks (thin), no fancy inserts (take up space swelling feet need), and probably most significant, a Vaseline lube job (no friction allowed). The mice in this shelter were bold and they scurried about the rafters in plain sight. I hung my bag outside as usual but they would not settle down making for a less than normal rest. They never bothered me or my stuff directly but the scratching noise of their movements was most distracting. Did I say I was going to have to revisit my shelter use strategy?
Clyde Smith Shelter, very old school, good lunch stop, great water
More color
Very pleasant footpath along the ridge
Gear in Cherry Gap Shelter, block and concrete, wooden platform
Minimal and satisfactory
View from Little Rock Knob
Day 4: I repeated my routine from the day before in order to get out as early as possible for an 11:30a rendezvous with M at Indian Grave Gap. As I ascended Unaka Mountain, elev. 5180 feet, I again experienced the transition from hardwood to evergreen forest, culminating in a dense spruce forest on top. The day was a bit warmer but still amazingly pleasant for what one could expect this time of year. At Beauty Spot, a clearing south of Unaka, I encountered some trail marking frisson. The trail led up to a grassy area, the last of the hike, and was well-marked with painted rocks and steel fence posts painted with white at the top similar to the white blazes on trees along the trail. There was a cross trail at the top to a parking lot so day visitors could catch the view. I encountered a half dozen folk, rested a bit, since I was on good pace to meet M, and then headed across the knoll to the downside. After walking about 0.3 of a mile I realized that there were no traditional trail markings: no painted rocks, or blazed posts within sight. I realize time and time again how dependent I have become on the system of blazes, to the extent that the lack thereof can cause anxiety once noticed. I thought I would go a bit farther, but since there was just high grass I could see that there were no posts ahead of me with a forest looming close. I bailed, turned around and hiked back up to the top, walked down to the parking lot, checked the trail at the top opposite the parking lot and then concluded using logic that the trail I was on had to be the AT regardless of the lack of markings. There was a stone with a blaze right at the intersection and then I noticed a small mad-made pile of rocks, a cairn, just ahead of me on the right. OK, I got to go and if this is not it I will find out sooner or later. About a 100 yards down the trail I noticed a flat rock on the right side of the trail with a white blaze nearly covered with grass; no wonder I missed it the first time. Frisson vanquished, I proceeded with confidence across the rest of the grassy area and into the woods for my final descent into Indian Grave Gap. Thinking I had lost a significant amount of time, the urge to push harder or faster downhill was present but again I resisted, knowing that if I missed the rendezvous I could probably text M and let her know I would be a bit late. As it turned out the trail down was well-designed and I walked it enjoyably and arrived with 15 minutes to spare, enough time to remove my sweat soaked shirt, kilt and underpinnings, as well as my foot gear in place of some camp shorts and a clean tee-shirt with the hope that M could tolerate hiker scent for the ride home. She arrived on schedule and off we went.
Who dat?
Mixed forest
Threshold of dense spruce grove on top of Unaka
In the grove and well-marked
Last bald near Beauty Spot
Reflections: The Roan Mountain hike is one of the most unusual of the entire southern part of the trail I have experienced. Being able to walk along wide open spaces for significant distances and see expansive views (it was also unusually clear) as opposed to hiking in a tunnel or under a canopy is a welcome difference. The only other evergreen sections I have hiked were in the Smokies, so this was a treat.
I have refined my gear to the point that hike preparation is routine and my pack weight this time with 2 liters of water and food was about 20 pounds, an easy load and just about right for the time out. Hiking with as light a pack as possible brings many benefits, but there are trade-offs. The idea of using the shelters and leaving the tent at home is fine; there are usually enough shelters along the trail to accommodate reasonable daily distances, but it is limiting in that there are many good campsites with water resources along the trail (more than shelters) that could be used at day's end. Sleeping in the open is not really an acceptable option, at least for me. Many long-distance hikers will use a combination of shelters and campsites depending on how much they desire to hike in a given day. They will start out with a goal in mind (or maybe not) and hike through the day and see how they are progressing. Often I have been at a shelter early in the day and hikers will drop in for water or a rest and then strike out again just to add another 5 or so miles before calling it a day. Having your tent allows for this flexibility. Also, tenting at a shelter (there are usually camping spots in the same vicinity) provides some level of separation from fellow hikers and their habits (some not so good) as well as the sounds they can make at night when asleep, so you can have the social experience around a meal and the campfire but find solitude in sleep. Mice seem to congregate at shelters for obvious reasons, and if one does a good job of hanging stuff with smells that attract vermin, there is a low probability that they will be interested in what is in your tent. Next time out, I am taking my tent - worth a little more weight.
I missed the AT thru-hiker culture this time out, which changes the experience. There is just something remarkable about the people you meet who are willing to accept the challenge of long-distance backpacking.
I have 75 miles to finish the section to Damascus, VA. I hope to finish that this year, hiker companionship or not. With that I would have hiked from Fontana Dam, NC (south entrance to the Smokies) to Mt Holly Springs, PA (50 miles of trail north of the Maryland/PA border) a total of over 900 miles.
Where: Sams Gap, NC (I-23 & Flag Pond Road) to Indian Grave Gap (TN 395)
Weather: 4 days of perfect weather, a bit cool at night, no rain. Length: 32 miles northbound
Elevation Changes: Sams Gap, 3760; Big Bald Mtn., 5377; Big Bald Shelter, 5096; Spivey Gap, 3200; No Business Knob Shelter, 3190; Uncle Johnny's Hostel, 2022; Curley Maple Gap Shelter, 3083; Indian Grave Gap, 3350.
I was back on the trail after a bitterly cold winter and some other circumstances kept me close to home. M was visiting her mom in Asheville, NC and I still had some miles from that region up to Damascus, VA to hike. Since I had been off the trail for 6 months I was a bit tentative about my conditioning and aware of the foot problems I sustained in my last two longer hikes north of Damascus. M dropped me off at Sams Gap, and with a positive attitude I set out from the parking lot of an overlook close to the gap around 1:30p having jumped a guardrail and some fence to access Flag Pond Road from the highway. That took me under the highway and directly into some major trail magic at the AT junction. The day was beautiful as were all the next three.
Local folks, knowing that this is prime thru-hiker season, had set out a feast to be reckoned with: every food item a starving hiker could dream off arrayed for the taking. Shucks, I had just eaten lunch with M and with a jittery stomach all I could get down was a grilled hot dog with no trimmings. But the rest of those 20 or so hikers there, some of whom I met up with later, indulged themselves with gratitude. Story has it that several lost their indulgences on the steep climb up to Big Bald.
What's new about Hiker Hank?
New Foot Setup
Salomon XA Pro 3D Ultra 2
I performed some research in order to make some better choices for the feet; hiking distances with a sizable pack on one's back can punish the feet. Oh, how to protect those puppies? I did four things differently: 1) lubed my feet with petroleum jelly; 2) sported a new pair of trail-runners (similar to my old ones, now retired to the gym and neighborhood walks) that were not waterproof and were well-ventilated; 3) replaced my light-hiker merino wool socks for merino wool sock liners from REI; 4) used the inserts that came with the shoes instead of the Super Feet I had been using in my other shoes and boots. I hiked the 32 miles without so much as a twinge of hot spot. So far so good; the true test will be wetter, hotter weather and longer distances. I believe that my earlier problems, besides forgetting that I am always a tenderfoot at the beginning of a new section and pushing too hard at first, were caused by excess friction and swelling feet. The combination of regular socks (thicker and abrasive when wet), the inserts (take up more space inside the shoe), poor ventilation (Gore-Tex keeps water out - somewhat, but when they eventually get wet it keeps the water in), and the fact that feet swell with heat and trauma basically made my shoes too small. My new shoes (same size) accompanied by the other changes resulted in a more open toe box, a better overall fit, and the mesh sides let air in and out like a screen door, so minimal heat build up. Therm-A-Rest Neo-Air Sleeping Pad
I had been using an ultra-light ¾ length Therm-A-Rest sleeping pad for quite a number of years to minimize weight but had been sacrificing comfort because it was thinner and I could bottom out the thing when side-sleeping. Wow, this baby was amazing: lighter, cushier, longer, but noisier (sounds like crushing potato chips when you move), and less durable (gotta use that ground cloth - should get some Tyvek sheet). I slept like I was at home on my space foam mattress. Plaid polyester shirt
The North Face Polyester Plaid Shirt
When I was hiking in the Smokies last spring I saw a hiker wearing a plaid collared shirt and just liked the look of it. It is light-weight, quick-dry, great with or without a knit shirt underneath (it has a light mesh across the shoulders and upper back), and I think it goes well with that kilt. When you wear one set of clothes over four days, you might as well wear was suits you best. I am still loving that kilt and I received lots of questions about it, the most frequent being, "What are you wearing underneath there?" That remains a mystery to some. High Hopes Group Almost immediately I found myself among the High Hopes Group, a clutch of hikers with some groupies, that had been hiking together soon after they left Springer 6 or 7 weeks ago. Leapfrogging best describes what can happen as folk hike at different paces and rest at different times. I really connected with this group on top of Big Bald Mt. The 1500 foot climb was actually delightful and I felt like I was in pretty good shape to tackle the ups and downs. Spending time at the Y recently doing yoga, strength training, and aerobic training paid off.
A few of the High Hopes with Big Bald in view
Trillium
Snow or Wildflower?
Experiencing the Bald views
Rain wanted to get blogged
As I ascended, the Bald the trail was beautiful with wildflowers in bloom and skies clear enough to see Wolf Laurel to the north and Erwin, TN to the east. I had seen this group and said hello, but Rain welcomed me instantly and made me feel like part of their group. It was quite windy at the top requiring the donning of my rain jacket. We all headed for the shelter and they treated me like royalty, assuring that I would have a prime spot in the shelter. I called them High Hopes because they had developed a ritual around their nightly fire pit where each person in the circle (all were welcome) would have the opportunity to describe their highs for the day and their hopes for tomorrow. This was a group that had developed togetherness to another level. The sharing was meaningful and edifying and, after all had contributed, the youngest of the group, Rabbit, sang a song with others chiming in that was derived from a Philmont Boy Scout song about backcountry experience. I was fortunate to hike with them on Day 1 and 2 and a few of them on Day 3.
I am still working on making videos and need to sort out the audio aspects of my camera. It was so bright that I could not see the viewing screen of the camera so I lost track of where I was a few times. The affect of the views is thankfully not lost.
Big Bald Shelter
This shelter looks small but could hold 10, it even had little wooden dividers to define the spaces. Many hikers tented in the spacious area around the shelter. Good water and privy.
Hank's spot and gear
How thoughtful!
The group rose slowly on Day 2 and were in no hurry to proceed. Many were going to push on to Erwin and some time in town, others had not decided yet and left the decision for later in the day depending on where they were and how they felt. I had planned to hike to the next shelter 10 miles away, so leaving at 10:30a was no problem. I remembered what Neville at Wood's Hole Hostel had told be about the many dimensions of a hike and not just focusing on grinding out the miles to the next shelter or campsite. I had no problem lingering among this group, hearing their stories and watching their interactions. Like most AT hikers, thru and section, they really cared for each other and where willing to share anything they had. There was excitement brewing about going into town, specifically about which buffet to assault and watering hole to frequent. I enjoyed the day seeing them on and off, but knowing that most would be ahead of me and I would probably not see them again.
Ridge trail
High Hopes at High Rocks
4.7 miles to No Business Knob
Another variety of Trillium
No Business Knob Shelter
Mecca, Rabbit, and Two Sticks
The No Business Knob Shelter was a minimalist structure, cinder block with a wooden deck, lots of graffiti. Fortunately, I was aware that it was a dry shelter so I had watered up about a mile back and had plenty for the evening and morning. Four Rickety Old Men I encountered more older men, like me, this time out and that became most evident at his shelter. T-Bird and Rod&Real were there for a bit, and both were in my age group compared to all the 20 somethings about. R&R moved on down the trail. T-Bird stayed and some other folk strolled in later. Pretty full with a few tents. Most notable in residence though was a lovely and sophisticated young lady from New York City, Brooklyn to be precise, named Charcoal for her prowess with fire. She was self-possessed, intelligent, articulate, and purposeful though she seemed to be ambivalent about moving on to Erwin or staying in the shelter. Providence interceded and she stayed. As evening approached she suggested to a group of hoary guys a realignment of the sleeping arrangements to even out the space and, due a previous experience with a mouse attack on her down bag, she orchestrated the hanging of food bags, also a good idea since a bear had been spotted earlier in the day. She had a disarming personality and knew how to lead. The evening lengthened as the fire burned down without the community of the High Hopes but with meaningful conversation and sharing anyway. Off to bed at hiker midnight, 9:00p.
All were up pretty early, so I was off just before 8:00a just behind Charcoal who was planning on stopping at Uncle Johnny's Hostel and going into town for some buffet grub. I did not know what her plans were after that. She had mentioned the previous night that she was at some point going back to NYC to take care of a few things. She outpaced me, so I wondered if I would see her again. A bit later she was stopped on the trail either shedding a layer or making an adjustment. We set off together, Hank behind, and struck up a little conversation. I mentioned what I was doing and that M was in Asheville and that she was going to pick me up tomorrow down the trail past the next shelter and that we were heading back to Richmond, VA. She paused and asked something like are you going back to Asheville? I said no that we were going directly to Richmond about 6 hours away. Another pause and she said she had been thinking of how to get off the trail between where we were and Damascus. I asked her if she wanted a ride and she paused again; I could tell the gears were meshing in her brain. She explained a little of her circumstance and said she needed to think a bit. She headed on down the trail and I said that I would definitely look for her at Uncle J's to follow up. I spent the rest of the hike with T-Bird, a retired electrician from Ohio. We talked about factory work, retirement, benefits, travel, the trail, and our families while walking at a very pleasurable pace.
T-Bird overlooking the Nolichucky River
When I arrived at Uncle J's she was there with Two Sticks. She came over and told me she wanted to take me up on the offer of a ride. Details aside, the trip back would allow her to catch an express bus from Richmond to NYC the next night. With that settled she made her reservation and headed into town on the 11:30a shuttle for food with an expected return on the 1:30p. I did not need nor want to go into town so I just hung out at Uncle J's until she returned. Meanwhile, I sat with two older guys, one named Miracle, the other's name I forget. R&R was there as well. Over the next several hours we talked about just about everything. They had been in town last night and had planned on heading out at 11:30a but just could not pull themselves away. Uncle J's was an inviting and delightful place to just hang.
Uncle J's Entrance
Courtyard with latrines, cabins, and tent area
Porch in front of store to relax
I left about 2:30p while the two old guys, R&R, and Charcoal among others just enjoyed the setting. I pushed on to the shelter arriving in short order to find a few folks just resting who moved on soon thereafter. I had the whole place to myself until R&R showed, then the two old guys, and finally Charcoal, Two Sticks and two other guys we had seen earlier.
R&R at Curley Maple Gap Shelter
Charcoal and Four Rickety Old Men
This was an excellent shelter with pretty good water but no privy. The shelter was built in 2010 with two levels and space for 14. The overhang was particularly admirable with table nestled underneath (would be great for rainy conditions). A fire sprang to life, cooking began, and some outstanding camaraderie ensued around the campfire. Notice the cut logs and planks for sitting. While around the fire Charcoal commented on being surrounded by Four Rickety Old Men and the moniker stuck. Then to bed for an 8:00a departure to meet M at 10:00a at Indian Grave Gap, 4.5 miles down the trail. An early and easy morning brought us to the parking lot on Rt. 395 TN where M had been waiting for few minutes. Greetings were exchanged and R&R who had been busy across the parking lot came over for some goodbyes. M, Charcoal and I set off for Richmond. We stopped a few times, but most memorable was brunch at the Wildflour Bakery in Abingdon. After eggs, omelets, biscuits, sausage, banana bread, fruit, grits, potatoes, Chai Tea, and coffee, we pushed north on I-81 and over I-64 east to Richmond. Charcoal was very adept with automobile slumber, and M and I caught up on the events of the last 4 days.
M and Charcoal discussing food choices at the
Wildflour Bakery in Abingdon, VA
Charcoal's bus left Richmond late in the evening so we were able to spend some time together at our home on Forest Avenue over a meal and meaningful conversation: a friendship solidified. Reflections: New gear can be so much fun to experience when it works to enhance a hike. The thru-hiker culture on the AT is the best part of the experience. I hope I get to hike with some of them again later on this season. Providence brings people together is simple ways for their mutual support, edification, and enjoyment. Having a supportive spouse makes section hiking all the more possible and enjoyable. I have never felt better at the end of hike than I did on Monday morning. I am looking forward to the next time out, whether sooner or later.
