Side Trail to the Desert: Day 1&2 - Palm Springs, CA

About a year ago M and I made a trip to the left coast to attend the destination wedding of a friend and to see our boy, W, who at the time lived in SoCal (see Side Trail to SoCal Part 2). He came down to SD to pick us up and his friend, C, came along. We had heard a little bit about her, but mainly in passing remarks like: Oh yeah, C and I went to a concert the other night. Little time passed before we could sense that something was going on between these two that was making them very happy and contagiously so to those around. We traveled up to the LA area, visited some other of W's welder friends and then went over to Palm Springs the next day. We had a couple of days with W&C and we also met C's parents who live in a golf community a little up the mountain from the desert floor of Palm Springs in Desert Hot Springs (DHS). We connected immediately. 
Now there are a few important things that we as parents offer in prayer unceasingly for our children; near top of the list are meaningful and edifying relationships and as they enter adulthood the possibility of finding a life partner that will love and complement them. We had already scored in spades with the girls and their spouses, so why shouldn't we expect that the boy would find true love. Fast forward to June and W&C are camping with S&J (older sister and hubby) at Yosemite National Park and, unbeknownst to all, he pops the question, gets a positive response, and now they are headed for matrimony. Later they call (or was it FaceTime?) and tell us. O joy beyond description. Another story could be told on how providence took them from sunny SoCal in January to the, let's be kind, damper climes of Portland, OR, a month later (maybe another blog post).

Fast forward some more and we have arrived in Palm Springs again for the celebration of their marriage; we came early (on Monday) in order to spend some time with C's parents before the party and to make it a bit of a vacation. The trip out was uneventful and the leg from Chicago enhanced greatly by the reassignment of seats by a charming AA staffer so M and I could sit next to each other (could not get the good seats online). We felt like we had the entire rear of the airplane to ourselves in pseudo first-class. So we arrived in good order and headed over to C's parents in DHS for lunch and then on to the Mission Lakes Inn and our little abode (#8) for the next week. After a bit of settling in (we had been up for 12 hours at this point and it is only 4 o'clock) the pool area outside our room was beckoning. Though the temperature was about 95 degrees, the low humidity and breeze soften the heat. After some chill time we took a little drive to pick up a few essentials at Stater Bros. and then back to hit the sack.

The sack time was good and we are almost in sink with PDT. Shared breakfast with J&G (C's parents) and discussed the upcoming events of the week. This is going to be a wonderful celebration and spending the time with them was so meaningful: families being knit together. Afterward M and I headed south a bit to take in the Desert resort towns stretched out along the 10 freeway ending in Indio at the Shields Date Garden, an institution in the area. Bought their famous date shake but could not finish, just too sweet. So, yesterday as we were lounging at the pool, a Greater Roadrunner (beep-beep) strolled up, looking for a handout. Remarkable bird, but to folk around here, nothing special and at times a pest. Fascination ensued, so during our outing we tried to descry all things related to that bird. M found some stuff for her charges at pre-school with desert animal themes. So as we lounged again today, the bird and company were back. I am sure we will see more of them. 
Soaking up a few rays by the pool was delightful (we soaked up more than a few - the sun here can be brutal - caution is the watchword).  The mountain views are spectacular and so different than the east and our well-worn landscapes; dragon's teeth come to mind. With Italian food on our minds we drove down into DHS to the Miracle Springs Spa to check out Capri. What a find: chianti in a carafe; house salads with a three bean complement; garlic bread dripping with olive oil; lasagna with a phenomenal red meat sauce (oregano, yum); on-site prepared Italian sausage and peppers in a light sauce over angel hair.

As we sat back from the table to engage in some more conversation about the day, Marian from the next table (and San Francisco) came over and sat down, saying: you guys just looked like some folk I should get to know. For the next 30 minutes we did just that. We connected on a number of levels, not the least of which was a common faith in the One who orders all things in such marvelous ways. She was also very active in her local hiking club; figure that, a lovely way to end an evening.

Then back to #8, with a warm glow from sun, deeper relationships, excellent food and drink, and the anticipation of more to come this week.

New Trail: The Maryland AT: It's a Family Affair

Dad, J, and S

Date: April 12 - 14

Who: Dad, Son-in-law, Daughter

Where: Across Maryland from Harper's Ferry, WV to the Mason-Dixon Line at Pen Mar, MD

Weather: Mostly sunny, pleasant days, cool nights, ended warm.

Length: 42 m

Elevation change: Harper's Ferry - 250'; Lamb's Knob - 1700'; Turner's Gap 1000'; Annapolis Rocks and High Rock - 1700'; Pen Mar Park - 1200'

Duration: Day 1, 10:30am start, 8.5 hours of hiking; Day 2, 9 hours; Day 3, 5.5 hours ending at 12:30pm 

For the past year I have been hiking solo and managing my own logistics by hitching rides from my parked truck at trail's end to my starting point. S&J love the out-or-doors and have some good camping and day hiking experience, and apart from some backpacking S did with family way back when, had not, as a couple, trekked with backpacks. They were determined to give it a try and since they live in Baltimore and the next section north of my last hike would logically have been the 42 miles across Maryland, we decided to take three days during Spring Break to do it. Among us three there was enough gear to be fairly well but lightly outfitted (as you can see) along the theme of my last blog. 
Day One. We met in B'town the night before, organized and packed, set out early in two cars, left one vehicle at Pen Mar, then drove the other to HF and started our hike about 10:30am with a pleasurable walk from the south end of the Rt. 340 bridge over the Shenandoah River through historic HF across the footbridge and down onto the C&O towpath north of the Potomac River.

 

We hiked along the towpath for a couple of miles working on sorting out a flatland pace. We then turned uphill for our first ascent of about 1000'; no problem. We then found ourselves on a mildly undulating ridge that would persist for the rest of the day. A topographical map of the area shows one major ridge along South Mountain which was the basis for our entire trip. For the majority of our trek this ridge line presented itself as a continuous outcropping of rock formations either to one side of the trail or in some places it was the trail. At this point I decided to demonstrate to the kids my pace for level terrain; in order to make some good time I usually push myself hard on the easy parts of the trail. So I set a somewhat furious pace for them to try out. We made good time and they hung in. They were used to hiking for shorter periods and taking in sights, but when you have 16 miles to  cover to reach the shelter you cannot dawdle too much. We did see some marvelous sights since the leaves were just coming out and the day was so fine. The Maryland AT has a number of interesting features both natural and man-made along its length. Several state parks, like Gathland and Washington Monument (and you thought this was in DC) afford backpackers, day hikers, and tailgate campers an opportunity for recreation. We stopped at Gathland, used their facilities, looked around at the historic buildings, rested, and refilled our water containers from a reliable piped source.

ridge line in rear

We arrived to an empty Rocky Run shelter around 6:00pm with plenty of daylight and hunger pains. This shelter appears to be rather new; the varnish on the floor showed little if any wear. The night was cooler but all had adequate sleeping gear; S&J had Big Agnes sleeping pads that were quite cushy and not so much weight. My 3/4 length ultralight Thermarest just rarely separates you from the floor beneath.

Rocky Run Shelter

The kids wake up

Breakfast - Day 2

Day 2. We had a leisurely wake-up and breakfast since we were doing another 16 miles today but with more time. We were out by 8:30am and soon found ourselves at Washington Monument State Park in none other than Washington County, MD. Again we found this a refreshing spot with facilities, piped water and some delightful views. With a more leisurely pace we followed the ridge line toward the Colwall Shelter. We skirted Greenbrier State Park since the descent to the park from the AT was longer and steeper than expected, passed over the I-70 footbridge, strolled along Annapolis Rocks, traversed a seriously rocky part of the ridge trail and descent to Wolfsville Road, and then eased into the shelter around 5:30pm. As we approached the shelter we heard and spied some guys on a short blue blaze trail to the right. They were taking advantage of the spring, which we did as well before we headed over to the shelter. This was the first time I had to use my new filter system, since we had been able to resupply at the state parks. After an initial phase of figuring out exactly how to fill my hydration system in my pack and arranging things so I could gravity feed from it through the filter into the other containers we were ready to settle into the shelter. Four engineers who worked with the Nuclear Regulatory Commission and lived near Frederick, MD had already arrived. They proved to be excellent shelter mates apart from the various levels of snoring that you can count on when sharing space. Those earplugs I brought with were useless. I need to find something more effective, but chances are they would not have diminished significantly the buzz from the elder of the other group. They had only hiked from Pen Mar, our destination tomorrow 10 miles away, so they needed to do 20 miles tomorrow to stay on track; they were in the sack by 8:00pm. We had finished dinner and just looked at each other thinking we would sit up and chat a bit since the temperature was pleasant, but out of respect just shrugged and snuggled in. J and I made an S sandwich on the left side while our friends slept to the right and above.

I-70 Footbridge

Cooling our jets

Cowall Shelter

Day 3. With only 10 miles to go we decided to get an early start, as were our shelter-mates, so with breakfast completed, gear packed, we left at 7:00am anticipating a 12:00 noon arrival in Pen Mar. Early on we passed through and beside several breathtaking meadows with low angled morning sun. After about 4 miles we encountered the ascent to High Rock, the highest point on the AT in Maryland. We were coming up from the south which is a bit easier climb than attacking the  rise from the north. We puffed a little bit but by now we had settled into a comfortable uphill pace that all were comfortable with. The downhill was steep and rocky, a serious challenge. The trail leveled out for a easy stroll to the end. The day had warmed pleasantly and wildflowers grabbed out attention. The trail was a bit rockier than the previous day so we did not cross the Mason-Dixon Line north of Pen Mark Park (lovely view) until about 12:30.

What a couple!

What a sight!

Love that boy!

Now some flora.

Fiddles 

Pen Mar Park view west

End of trail - everyone is smiling

So, we packed up the car and traveled back to HF through the valley west of the ridge: rich farmland; sheep, cows, horses, young and old alike; azure skies; warm temperature; peaceful. Found a great parking spot amidst all the hubbub of Saturday in HF: rafts, kayaks, canoes on the river, people on the heights, on the streets, in the shops and restaurants, bees in the air, motorized vehicle sounds we had only heard in the distance or on an approach to a road. Glad to see HF has such a thriving tourist industry with all its history and natural grandeur. 

We returned to a pub that J&S had frequented before that had Mountain State Amber Ale on draft, who cares about the food? Shameful though that WV makes them cook those 1/2 lb. specialty hamburgers to medium-well which in my book is close to dead.
Reflections: Beautiful weather and conditions for backpacking; lighter equipment and, for me, no ill effects that I experienced on my last outing; 42 more AT miles to log; great views and a variety of interesting sights, delightful social encounters along the way; meaningful family talks on a range of topics; easy logistics (no hitchhiking), and most of all time spent doing something with people I love who love an adventure and a challenge as much as I do.

New Gear: I Love REI

Geared Up

I attended two classes at REI last month: light-weight backpacking and long-distance backpacking (AT thu-hiker style). The experience goes to show that even if you think you know stuff and have experience there are others that can contribute to your knowledge when preparing for a trek. With some of my not-so-current gear and thoughts on what I needed on the trail, I surmised I was carrying more weight than necessary. My last hike (February post) was the most arduous in recent history (with my current gear) and I felt the effects. Soon after the hike I had an annual check up with Dr. Matt and related to him some of my aches and pains, specifically arm/elbow, right knee, and right Achilles tendon. On the last day of the recent trek I felt some heat in my Achilles tendon which persisted for several weeks after the hike.  Dr. Matt diagnosis: arm/elbow pain equals tennis elbow or classic tendonitis - nothing major, just take it easy; knee x-ray shows arthritis - again nothing major but no remedy, just tough it out with some ibuprofen, eventually this joint will wear out; but the Achilles tendon raised his eyebrows and he expressed some serious caution. Now this is not setting well with me who wants to increase the rigor of my hikes both in terrain and distance. He said I had to rest it or possibly develop a chronic condition that could lead to rupture; that direction was painful in another way - the cancellation of another planned hike. Major Bummer!

This combination led me to consider investing in some new and lighter gear and to more carefully choose what to pack to make my backpacking, frankly, easier with less stress on the old body, and, therefore, more enjoyable.  First step was to weigh all my stuff; ounces matter and add up. My old external frame pack from Philmont days weighed in a 6 lbs. 6 oz., my water pump/ceramic filter unit, 1 lb. 3 oz., nalgene water bottle (empty), 7 oz.; radio/light, 9 oz. among other stuff. The classes suggested ways and gear to drop weight, so with a couple of 20% off coupons and some help from the Easter bunny I bought some stuff.

REI Flash 62 Backpack

With this pack I am definitely up-to-date and it weighs a mere 3 lbs. which is a savings of just over 3 lbs. I used this on the Maryland AT hike (upcoming post) and the experience was transforming. I will able to carry all the stuff I need for any distance in this baby and it fits like a glove.

Sawyer 3-Way Inline Water Filter

With no mechanical parts (like my ceramic filter/pump) this puppy comes in at 2 oz. slightly more than 1 lb. less and more reliable. I rigged this as directed in line with my MSR hydration system, filled the bladder with spring water (with bacteria probably) and had filtered water on demand for the Maryland hike. The gravity feed worked great, but took some practice. I got it now.

Petzl Tikka Plus 2 Headlamp

M had wanted me to have a new headlamp for some time so in true Easter bunny style this presented itself prior to the Maryland hike. On my last hike I nearly ran out of daylight and this would have been quite useful. It weighs 4 oz. less than the other bulky crank radio/light I was using and is more versatile (and way cool looking).

I traded in my 32 oz. (volume) Nalgene bottle for a 1 liter seltzer water bottle and saved 5 oz. I also seriously considered each item I packed for the Maryland trip. The goal was for my packed backpack to weight less than 20 lbs. without water, fuel, or food. The night before the trip it weighed in at 15 lbs.; mission accomplished. This did not include my 3 lb. tent, more clothes I will need during colder climes, and more food for a longer trek, but I am in the ballpark and have a new enthusiasm for counting every oz. that's on my back, pushing on my knees and hips, and adding stress to those precious tendons that run down the backs of my ankles.

By the way, the 42-mile Maryland hike left me feeling no worse for wear, so I believe I am on a more successful adventure than ever. Bring on some more AT.

New Trail: Appalachian Trail Conservancy (Harper's Ferry) to Rt. 522 (Front Royal)

Shenandoah River form Rt. 340 Bridge

Date: January 30 - February 2

Where: Blue Ridge Mtns. between Harper's Ferry, WV and Front Royal, VA

Duration: 4-day (72 hour outing)

Length: 53.2 m

With more balmy weather forecast and a light level of commitments (none) a mid-winter AT trek was too tempting to pass up.  So I set aside four days to complete this section to add to my VA miles.  On Monday I drove over to Front Royal and parked in the same AT parking spot I used on my last hike near the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute formerly know as the National Zoo's Conservation and Research Center on Rt. 522 with the plan of hitchhiking up to Harper's Ferry to pick up the trail near the Headquarters of the ATC and backpacking back. Time was 9:30a. Ben picked me up and we connected immediately because he had spent some time at Woodley outside of Orange on Rt. 15 as a youth and was kin to some Orange County folk I know.  He took me through FR to north of I-66.  At bit later, Jeff, an under-the-weather middle school exceptional ed teacher who had left school early, took me further along to where 522 and 340 split; I needed to proceed north on 340 to HF. Robert, a youngish Latino lad picked me up in an ailing Toyota Celica and off we went up 340. I asked how far he was going and he mentioned some indefinite work he had lined up in that area; his English was good but something was missing in the communication. When I asked more specifically if he could take me all the way he said he was going that way, so yeah. Our conversation picked up and I surmised he had been in country for 13 years but under dubious circumstances, so I did not press more. We stopped for gas and I offered $ to help out; I suspected some cash was much needed since a delightful picture of two children was fitted to the dash. He was exceedingly grateful and took me all the way to the steps of the ATC. After a farewell and God-bless I spent some time in the office checking out AT stuff and receiving the 50 cent tour from a volunteer. I walked the side (blue-blazed) trail from the ATC down into the river gorge and intersected the AT north of the 340 bridge over the Shenandoah River at about 12:15p, somewhat earlier than expected given the distance of my hitch-hike. I was on the trail.

Day 1: ATC to Blackburn Trail Center (PATC), 12.5 miles, 5 hrs, gorgeous weather. After a pretty steep pull out of the river basin to the south, the trail followed a set of ridges with gradual ascents and descents. The trail was rockier than usual so that slowed things a bit but I still made good enough time to push past the first shelter (that was my default if my hitchhiking took longer) to the hiker hostel at this well-developed retreat. The only person I met on the trail came across WVA Rt. 9 at Key's Gap while I was taking a breather and leaving M a text: a lithe and spritely young lady pushing for home somewhere in Maryland. At the hostel I met the winter caretaker, an ATC boundary tech. who, among other things, is one of the guys who applies those ubiquitous white blazes that mark the AT. He directed me to the little house that had two over/under bunks and a small wood stove with a stocked box of dry wood. Warm dining, reading, and sleep.  I made good progress today, but tomorrow will present a number of challenges.

Hiker Hostel

PATC Retreat Center

Day 2: Blackburn Trail Center to Rod Hollow ATC Shelter, 17.5 miles, 11 hrs, another gorgeous day, rocky terrain. Since I was packing no tent, I had planned to stay in shelters along the AT. In order to balance the miles for the remainder of the trek, I really needed to do those miles on Tuesday or I would be facing a hurried end to the hike. I was aware of what stood before me and that shelter: The Roller Coaster. Because the AT passes through private lands hereabouts, the trail is sometimes "pushed" away from what might (or used to be) a better offering. Such is the case through this stretch were the trail is forced down from the ridges so that it transects the hollows, necessitating a series of steep up and downs as one moves down toward the inevitable stream coursing through the lowest part of the hollow and then back up over a ridge extending down from the main ridge and, like a roller coaster down again (and of course up). The elevation of this section of trail was essentially the same at the beginning and end: 1500 ft above sea level, but the trail ascended and descended 11 times in the 17.5 mile span. If you total the elevation change of the ups, it comes to 4200 feet, which means 4200 feet of down. "Nuff said." It took much longer than I expected and I did not arrive into the shelter until 6:15p, and yes it was pretty much dark. I was never so glad to see the sign marking the turn off to the shelter, a short trail in, and the log lean-to appearing out of the gloaming. I was beat and agitated, but had completed 30 of my 53.2 miles with two days to go. I did receive some welcome feedback: I met "beagle girl" as I was on my first ascent after Snicker's Gap, VA Rt. 7. She passed me on a day hike with her dog and we greeted each other. She mentioned the "straight up" ahead across a couple of streams; she was right. I trudged along at my seemingly snail's pace (you just have to keep moving now matter how slowly) and at the top of the first big ascend (an overlook with splendid views) there she sat with the pooch. She exclaimed as she saw me, "You are on some impressive pace, it took me the better part of a day just to make the first up!" I stopped a moment, hydrated and then moved on. After a bit she passed me again on to the next height. I continued trudging. I meet her a few hours later after a number of ups and downs as she was on her return, she stopped and asked if I were going to the next shelter a mile or two away, but I replied I was pushing on to Rod Hollow. Her moth dropped open and she stated emphatically, "that is some serious backpacking!" So as slow as I might think I am, that fact that I rarely stop for long, and push through those ups proves that "slow and steady wins the race."

Sunrise 

Out of a hollow

Bottom of a hollow

Welcome sight (the morning after)

Day 3: Rod Hollow to Manassas Gap, 13.5 miles, 7 hrs, absolutely glorious day, shorts and a tee-shirt. Compared to yesterday, today's hike was a walk-in-the-park. Gradual rises and falls and a much smoother trail. Sacked in a bit in the morning, out by 8:00a and into camp at 3:00p. Not soon after I arrived, Doug, a local man who lived up the mountain but gentrified walked in while I was unpacking and enjoying the daylight at rest. We chatted on and off for the better part of an hour while I was performing my chores, he reading the trail logbook in the shelter, and regaling me of his hunting exploits and his fascination with "Bigfoot."  He was welcome company on a day with little interaction. I relaxed more than any time on this trek, while I listened to the road traffic plying through Manassas Gap on VA Rt. 55, a scant two miles away. But most comforting was the sound of freight (probably coal for export going east) being hauled over the mountain by diesels on rails. There must have been at least two grade level crossings because I was lulled to sleep by the whistle sound of four blasts: short, short, long, short that signify such an intersection.

Rt 50 at Ashby Gap 

Sky Meadows

Sky Meadows

Smooth Trail

Last Night

Day 4: Down to Rt 522, 10.5 miles, 6 hrs, started with a steady drizzle of rain, ended in bright sunshine. Since I knew I could be in rain all day and wanted to get back to Richmond before dark, I wanted to get started as early as possible so I was up and waiting for enough light to head out. In drizzle, I began at 6:30a with scant light due to fog and clouds. I picked my way carefully over the  wet, rocky bits and averted a number of falls with those incomparable and indispensable hiking sticks. The day brightened as I hiked. I held a conservative but steady pace, until the misty shroud cleared and picked up the pace as the trail descended a lovely three miles into Chester Gap, Rt 522. Of note is that as I was sorting things out at my truck I spied three younger looking folk walking down the north side of 522 toward Front Royal and looking out of place, not locals, and moving with purpose. They approached the truck beside mine at the parking spot where the AT crosses 522 and we struck up some conversation. The close-by Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute, formerly the Conservation and Research Center of the National Zoo, which has fenced property on both sides of 522 extending for acres was their balliwick. They informed me of the Center's purpose and their roles as biologists. They had been on a four-hour hike collecting data and observing some ecological aspects of the area. Bright, young, enthusiastic minds, loving their profession and the opportunity to pursue interesting research: tax dollars well spent. They asked about my hike; upon my response their collective eyes widened with respect for an old man who was in his element as well: a fitting end to a most enjoyable adventure.

What a trail! 

Yes, that is definitely up.

"One Misty, Moisty, Morning"

A bright, sunny midday at trail's end

Reflection: One with my pack, one with my boots, one with the trail, one with nature, and one with God. Life is so, so good.