New Trail: Winding Stair Gap, NC to Springer Mt., GA

On the line

When: June 5 - 14, 2018
Where: Western NC, North GA
Weather: 80s over 60s, thunderstorms some days.
Elevation Points of Interest: Albert Mt. (Fire Tower) - 5250', Standing Indian Mt. - 5498', Blood Mt. - 4461', Springer Mt. - 3782'.

Distance: 109.8 AT miles; 8.8 Approach Trail miles




The last time I hiked the AT at length was 2.5 years ago. Shoulder surgery and recovery among other distractions, kept me off the long trail until now. I had been training and hiking some but I wondered if I had what it took to master this trek. Those spin and yoga classes at the gym, walks around town and those ups and downs to the lower forty apparently did the trick. I had a plan and stuck to it except on the penultimate day where I hiked to the top of Springer Mt. instead of the previous shelter 2.8 miles down the mountain.

Original plan notes with revisions

The key to above is that a triangle indicates a known campsite and three horizontal lines a shelter (logs maybe?). The left column of numbers shows the distance between stops and the right the cumulative total which I entered at the end of each hiking day. 

Day 1: After one night in Asheville, NC visiting M's clan, we drove over to Franklin, NC and up to the gap for my departure. My plan was to hike 9.1 to Big Spring Shelter with the heaviest pack this trip, probably around 32 pounds including 7 days provision; It only gets lighter from here. I waltzed into a shelter in mid-afternoon with a group of day hikers and some confusion where I was precisely. Using an old trail guide (2012) can cause some problems. A new shelter had been built and an old one razed, but what was what? After some head scratching I determined that I was not at my targeted shelter (no name plate, did not fit description, distance wrong) so I struck out for it. Well, when I arrived at the spot this was the razed shelter. O my! No problem; I just hiked a bit further to the top of Albert Mt. with its fire tower. Much better setting and I had watered up so no shortage of the cool stuff. Spent the night solo in windy and cool surroundings - refreshing. 

Winding Stair

Largest trillium I have ever seen

Long Branch Shelter - typical for this section of trail

Albert Mt. marker 

Great campsite near fire tower

Day 2: As I was packing up, Bob showed at the fire tower and we struck up a meaningful conversation. We traveled together (not heel to top on the trail) and met up at two other tent sites before he left the trail. Under clear skies and with pleasant temperatures I spent a leisurely day (meaning lots of stops and rest needed for first full day) and ascended Standing Indian Mt. We debated where to camp and chose the peak with marvelous views, breezy conditions and good company. Several hikers, all northbound (NoBos), stopped by for the view. Jessie decided to stay over and we pitched tents and enjoyed the evening sunset.

Bob and Jessie

Clear top of the morning

Day 3: Fairly easy terrain today into Plumborchard Gap Shelter. Weather delightful. Wildflower Day. Crossed into North GA. Met Bob at campsite with more poison ivy around than I have seen recently. The shelter was 0.2 miles down a steep grade with water below. We choose to take the campsite versus the shelter but did go down packless for water, bear box storage, and fellowship. Lively group at the shelter with many excellent campsites about.

Gnarly

Resting folks

Mountain Laurel

Got ferns?

Plumborchard campsite - stock photo

Day 4: Back down to the shelter to pick up food and water and then headed out toward Dick's Creek Gap and a popular trail intersection with US76 and Hiawassee, GA 11.0 miles west. Bob's wife and brother-in-law met him and me around 12:30p. Off they went. I spend a good hour here for water, lunch, rest, foot maintenance and conversation. More severe ups and downs today but I made reasonable time into Sassafras Gap with good campsite and water. Fourth night in a row tenting; something I had never done before. Little bit of rain but I had organized my gear within the capacious rain fly that extends away from the door. Love my tent. All dry in the morning.

Spring emanating from a lagoon under a tree

Sassafras campsite solo sundown

Day 5: With more arduous hiking (three significant ups and downs) I spent 9.5 hours on the trail from 8a to 5:30p with many breaks. As I dropped into Unicoi Gap (GA75 into Helen, GA) with 2.5 miles to go and a 1000' climb, the rains came. You probably have seen those notice boards under small pitched roofs on both sides informing travelers and hikers of directions, rules, warnings, and other info. There were about 6 hikers with packs crammed in on both sides while the heavens dumped torrential, blowing rain. We were all getting wet and more people were hustling down the trail and from across the road for shelter. What to do? A young adult with iPhone announced another hour of the stuff before it cleared. Grumbling and jostling made for an unwelcome spot. So with rain jacket donned, I just took off across the road and up the trail that had become a river. I took my time, while my lower body and shoes were soaked as I made my way up Blue Mt. I arrived at the shelter damp but no worse for wear. The skies cleared, up went the clothesline for wet, dry clothes unpacked and dinner prepared with enjoyable company of three others in the roomy, dry shelter. A beautiful but somewhat obscured view from the top was a delight. No tent pitching this night, I spread my ground cloth on the planks of the shelter floor, inflated my O-so-comfortable sleeping pad, unrolled my fleece summer sleep sack and just stretched out for a well-deserved rest before dinner. If at any point on the trail I could claim that "I crushed it" this was it. I wondered if someone waiting out the weather down in the gap said of me as I headed out in the deluge, "That dude came for some serious hiking."

Grand stand of mayapple

Massive root ball along trail

Lots of blow downs - trail where?

Notice Board mini-shelter

Blue Mt. Shelter

Day 6: Learned about pop-tart oatmeal this morning: one of my shelter-mates put some oatmeal in a bowl then placed a crumbled one (they do not stay in one piece in a backpack) on top and added hot water. Made an appetizing mush. Ahead was my longest hike: 15.1 tame miles to Wolf Laurel Top; well, there was a rain soaked hike up to the ridge. But the skies cleared in time for me to set up camp and be ready for another storm if one presented itself. A few sprinkles came and went. Another solo camp in a beautiful spot with a marvelous view. Later when all was dark I got up for a nature call and saw two sights not normally seen: A road passed through a mountain gap some ways away and as motor vehicles came through their lights shone as a bright spot slowly moving down from the gap. They appeared as an undulating string of pearls glimmering in the near total darkness. But then I glanced above to see more stars than I have seen in many a year. The constellations were so pronounced I recognized several I do see at home. And across the entire celestial ceiling appeared a stark, concentrated ban of stars several inches wide in my near vision from lower left to upper right: the Milky Way in all its glory. I actually gasped at the sight and then thought of God's promise to Father Abraham that his offspring would number as many as these. I settled back into my accommodations with awe and wonder. 

Day 7: Resupply; I was down to just a little bit of breakfast food and some snacks, indicating my food plan was just about right. By 10:30a I had hiked 3.7 miles down to Neels Gap noted for the only place where the AT passes through a building: hostel to the right and outfitter to the left. On my way in I encountered a family and had an engaging and meaningful conversation. One of the moms was talking to a girl child and said,"We were hoping to see a real hiker." I had on my pack and they asked me a bunch of questions about what and how I was doing. They helped me stage some photos at the pass-through. I spent a luxurious 2.5 hours charging my phone, checking in with M, eating an entire pizza, buying food and some snacks to consume there. My Sawyer 3-way water filter let me down on day one. I connect it in-line with the hydration system nestled in my pack, so that all I have to do is put water (treated or not) in the bladder and then suck it through. I tested it a home and noticed a bit more resistance in the filter than should be and once on the trail found it too difficult to sustain, so I prayed for protection and unhooked it. From that point forward I was very careful to take water only from springs or really good looking streams. No ill effects. I decided to buy the latest filter Sawyer had to offer and found it extremely satisfactory for the remainder of my trip. I had a good sort through all my gear and then headed up the north side of Blood Mt., a notoriously steep and rocky climb many avoid (may be a reason most folks hike south to north). I made slow and steady progress up to the crest and the 1934 stone shelter, beating the stormy weather by an hour or so. Spectacular views and antiquated setting. Lots of day hikers out coming up from fire road crossings on the south face, a much easier climb. Three folks appeared out of the storm as I and two other hikers who were waiting out the weather were taking advantage of the shelter. This was "Trail Magic": that unexpected provision of sustenance both temporal and spiritual. They opened up their daypacks and spread an assortment of fruit and water bottles before us encouraging us to take full advantage. Fresh fruit on the trail? Unheard of. The shelter was a dry camp and I had lugged more water up the slope than I wanted and still felt I was a bit short for the start tomorrow; shortage solved with one medium size bottle. The shelter had two rooms and I had swept out the back one and arranged my gear. Thinking I would be alone as darkness approached I dined and was about ready to bed down with rain pouring down and Anne showed up from Gooch Mt. Shelter, poncho in place and weary from an extended day. We shared accommodations and stories and had a quiet and dry night of it.

Quizzical Family 

Neels Gap pass-through

Who put that rock on top?

Day 8: From here to Springer is pretty easy hiking and I was feeling very good, so I was sanguine about the remaining days and nights on the trail even with foggy damp conditions. I left Blood Mt. around 8:00a and arrived at Gooch Mt. around 4:45p to a shelter and camping area brimming with Boy Scouts from Florida. Why so many Floridians? If you live in FL and want mountains, these are the closest. After some discussion with boys and leaders, I carved out my crib on the left of the lower level of this roomy two storey. The boys said that Hannah was coming up later to start a fire in the fire ring. Not long after she showed offering some vittles: venison sausage. She had an abundance which needed to be consumed in the next few days and had not the capacity to eat them all. I weighed in since I was a little short of food for my last days, tasted a sample and delighted in the sage and fennel seasoning. No boys initially partook, but a bit later one addressed me with a request for a taste. That courage started a demand that took half of my stash, but still left enough for lunch tomorrow. The palindromic lady from KY came up early and we struck up some serious and enlightening conversation whilst attempting to ignite damp tinder. We failed with the fire, but I became acquainted with a formidable pioneer woman whose story is too long and involved to tell. We resonated on many philosophical points and agreed to stay in touch. Trip to KY? The Scouts nor their leaders were well acquainted with AT shelter traditions and protocol, so the noise did not die down until well past hiker midnight. Also, if someone snores loudly and persistently, they often choose to tent away from the shelter. Not so this evening, so I had to endure a night of log-sawing breathing which challenged my ability to control my response to the annoyance.

Damp foggy day of hiking

A few scouts at Gooch Mt.

Day 9: My last full day on the trail had a target of the Stover Creek Shelter some 13.0 miles away. I left earlier than previous days with the niggling thought of pushing the additional 2.8 miles up to the Springer summit and shelter. I tried to resist just thinking of ending to no avail; adrenaline pumping a bit. I made excellent time to Stover Creek having convinced myself to not make a decision until that place. I arrived about 4:00p, rested for a bit, but them decided to push up the mountain. Best decision I made on the trip. The climb was not too arduous, the shelter was classic, water was abundant, the folks there were just the right mix for good table talk. Before settling in, I climbed to the top of Springer (0.2 mile further), essentially ending the AT portion of my hike on day 9, and then came back down to the shelter for the evening. This decision set me up for the 8.8 mile descent to the Amicalola Falls SP Visitor Center and the rendezvous with M. If I had not ascended all the way I would have been faced with a morning uphill slog, a hurried experience at the top and then an even more hurried descent. As it turned out I had a delightful time with the folks both in the shelter and tenting around, all of whom were heading north and had just endured the rigors of the Approach Trail. As a bedded down in the shelter between two Scottish Highlander teens on my right and two experienced backpackers on the left, I felt euphoric lying on top of my sleeping gear in the residual warmth of the day until the cool of the evening chased me under covers.

Official plaque signifying southern terminus

Proof of completion; I am happy about it.

GA club plaque with adjacent AT blaze: first one heading north

Springer Mt. Shelter

Day 10: Up early, but not rushing due to location up the mountain. Rendezvous was for 2:00p but I wanted to get there about 1:00p to give me some slack to sort myself out before she arrived. I fixed pop-tart oatmeal and coffee to get me going. The Approach Trail is not officially part of the AT; there is a fire road that provides access to Springer one mile shy of the peak, so a hiker can avoid this ascent when starting their NoBo trek, but most do not. I am glad I finished this way going down and south, rather than starting there and hiking north. It is an arduous 8.8 mile journey that often persuades naive potential thru-hikers to hang up their boots. The 2000' descent is trail-like for the first 7 miles but then one arrives at the top of Amicalola Falls and a set of 604 well-engineered but steep steps to the base. After that there is another mile of steep paved trail down to the Visitor Center. That ascent for a Nobo hiker is a literal shakedown cruise. Most start with too much gear, a full load of food, and probably too much water on board. Many campsites peppered the trail to the summit which I am sure in heavy spring hiking season are jammed with folks that made it up a mile or two above the falls before petering out. I met one young lady on the paved trail around 1:00p glistening with sweat and puffing laboriously who thought she was going to make the shelter that afternoon. Not likely. I arrived on schedule by really humping it on some flat spots higher up. I grabbed a soda and changed into some less odiferous clothes and shoes and while changing M showed up and found my stuff near an arch behind the Center defining the beginning of the Approach Trail. Hiking adventure done! Heading home.

Morning departure from Springer summit

Trail buddy

Falls and steps from the base

End of trail for me; beginning for NoBos

Reflections

Bookend: After hiking 1200+ miles and ending at Springer I how have an AT bookend experience: finishing a long hike at one end of the trail. This hike was also the culmination of 5 or so years of experience that made the outing go so well. I plan to stay in the shape I am now and be ready for whatever comes next. I do not have my heart set on hiking the entire AT, but do have loose plans. The remaining mileage in PA I would like to share with my Baltimore family over whatever time frame and sections we choose to undertake. That will put me close to 1300 miles. There are two other sections I want to hike: the White Mts. in New Hampshire and the 100 mile wilderness in Maine that leads up to Katahdin, the northern terminus. These will also be family hikes in the sense that M and I plan to travel to the location and spend whatever time I need to complete the section. M, as in this trip, will be my logistical support: taking me to trailheads, picking me up a few days later, helping with resupply, sharing nights in indoor accommodations and meals prepared by someone else, and providing companionship. While I am hiking, she can soak up what the area has to offer. There are other off-AT hikes I would like to experience: the John Muir Trail, part of the PCT near Yosemite NP; some PCT in the Oregon Cascade Range with the boy, some local Shenandoah trails with friends.

Best Hike? Nearly two weeks have passed since I finished and I as I relive the experience I believe this could have been the best AT hike so far, closely followed by sections in the Smokies, southwest VA near Roanoke, Maryland (with family) and middle PA. What makes a "best" hike? People, solitude, preparedness, openness, flexibility, natural beauty, weather, challenge, patience, love. After having been off the trail for so long, getting back on was just exhilarating and satisfying; being able to do this at this stage of my life is truly a blessing. Thank you, Lord.