Length: 53.2 m
With more balmy weather forecast and a light level of commitments (none) a mid-winter AT trek was too tempting to pass up. So I set aside four days to complete this section to add to my VA miles. On Monday I drove over to Front Royal and parked in the same AT parking spot I used on my last hike near the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute formerly know as the National Zoo's Conservation and Research Center on Rt. 522 with the plan of hitchhiking up to Harper's Ferry to pick up the trail near the Headquarters of the ATC and backpacking back. Time was 9:30a. Ben picked me up and we connected immediately because he had spent some time at Woodley outside of Orange on Rt. 15 as a youth and was kin to some Orange County folk I know. He took me through FR to north of I-66. At bit later, Jeff, an under-the-weather middle school exceptional ed teacher who had left school early, took me further along to where 522 and 340 split; I needed to proceed north on 340 to HF. Robert, a youngish Latino lad picked me up in an ailing Toyota Celica and off we went up 340. I asked how far he was going and he mentioned some indefinite work he had lined up in that area; his English was good but something was missing in the communication. When I asked more specifically if he could take me all the way he said he was going that way, so yeah. Our conversation picked up and I surmised he had been in country for 13 years but under dubious circumstances, so I did not press more. We stopped for gas and I offered $ to help out; I suspected some cash was much needed since a delightful picture of two children was fitted to the dash. He was exceedingly grateful and took me all the way to the steps of the ATC. After a farewell and God-bless I spent some time in the office checking out AT stuff and receiving the 50 cent tour from a volunteer. I walked the side (blue-blazed) trail from the ATC down into the river gorge and intersected the AT north of the 340 bridge over the Shenandoah River at about 12:15p, somewhat earlier than expected given the distance of my hitch-hike. I was on the trail.
Day 1: ATC to Blackburn Trail Center (PATC), 12.5 miles, 5 hrs, gorgeous weather. After a pretty steep pull out of the river basin to the south, the trail followed a set of ridges with gradual ascents and descents. The trail was rockier than usual so that slowed things a bit but I still made good enough time to push past the first shelter (that was my default if my hitchhiking took longer) to the hiker hostel at this well-developed retreat. The only person I met on the trail came across WVA Rt. 9 at Key's Gap while I was taking a breather and leaving M a text: a lithe and spritely young lady pushing for home somewhere in Maryland. At the hostel I met the winter caretaker, an ATC boundary tech. who, among other things, is one of the guys who applies those ubiquitous white blazes that mark the AT. He directed me to the little house that had two over/under bunks and a small wood stove with a stocked box of dry wood. Warm dining, reading, and sleep. I made good progress today, but tomorrow will present a number of challenges.
 |
| Hiker Hostel |
 |
| PATC Retreat Center |
Day 2: Blackburn Trail Center to Rod Hollow ATC Shelter, 17.5 miles, 11 hrs, another gorgeous day, rocky terrain. Since I was packing no tent, I had planned to stay in shelters along the AT. In order to balance the miles for the remainder of the trek, I really needed to do those miles on Tuesday or I would be facing a hurried end to the hike. I was aware of what stood before me and that shelter: The Roller Coaster. Because the AT passes through private lands hereabouts, the trail is sometimes "pushed" away from what might (or used to be) a better offering. Such is the case through this stretch were the trail is forced down from the ridges so that it transects the hollows, necessitating a series of steep up and downs as one moves down toward the inevitable stream coursing through the lowest part of the hollow and then back up over a ridge extending down from the main ridge and, like a roller coaster down again (and of course up). The elevation of this section of trail was essentially the same at the beginning and end: 1500 ft above sea level, but the trail ascended and descended 11 times in the 17.5 mile span. If you total the elevation change of the ups, it comes to 4200 feet, which means 4200 feet of down. "Nuff said." It took much longer than I expected and I did not arrive into the shelter until 6:15p, and yes it was pretty much dark. I was never so glad to see the sign marking the turn off to the shelter, a short trail in, and the log lean-to appearing out of the gloaming. I was beat and agitated, but had completed 30 of my 53.2 miles with two days to go. I did receive some welcome feedback: I met "beagle girl" as I was on my first ascent after Snicker's Gap, VA Rt. 7. She passed me on a day hike with her dog and we greeted each other. She mentioned the "straight up" ahead across a couple of streams; she was right. I trudged along at my seemingly snail's pace (you just have to keep moving now matter how slowly) and at the top of the first big ascend (an overlook with splendid views) there she sat with the pooch. She exclaimed as she saw me, "You are on some impressive pace, it took me the better part of a day just to make the first up!" I stopped a moment, hydrated and then moved on. After a bit she passed me again on to the next height. I continued trudging. I meet her a few hours later after a number of ups and downs as she was on her return, she stopped and asked if I were going to the next shelter a mile or two away, but I replied I was pushing on to Rod Hollow. Her moth dropped open and she stated emphatically, "that is some serious backpacking!" So as slow as I might think I am, that fact that I rarely stop for long, and push through those ups proves that "slow and steady wins the race."
 |
| Sunrise |
 |
| Out of a hollow |
 |
| Bottom of a hollow |
 |
| Welcome sight (the morning after) |
Day 3: Rod Hollow to Manassas Gap, 13.5 miles, 7 hrs, absolutely glorious day, shorts and a tee-shirt. Compared to yesterday, today's hike was a walk-in-the-park. Gradual rises and falls and a much smoother trail. Sacked in a bit in the morning, out by 8:00a and into camp at 3:00p. Not soon after I arrived, Doug, a local man who lived up the mountain but gentrified walked in while I was unpacking and enjoying the daylight at rest. We chatted on and off for the better part of an hour while I was performing my chores, he reading the trail logbook in the shelter, and regaling me of his hunting exploits and his fascination with "Bigfoot." He was welcome company on a day with little interaction. I relaxed more than any time on this trek, while I listened to the road traffic plying through Manassas Gap on VA Rt. 55, a scant two miles away. But most comforting was the sound of freight (probably coal for export going east) being hauled over the mountain by diesels on rails. There must have been at least two grade level crossings because I was lulled to sleep by the whistle sound of four blasts: short, short, long, short that signify such an intersection.
 |
| Rt 50 at Ashby Gap |
 |
| Sky Meadows |
 |
| Sky Meadows |
 |
| Smooth Trail |
 |
| Last Night |
Day 4: Down to Rt 522, 10.5 miles, 6 hrs, started with a steady drizzle of rain, ended in bright sunshine. Since I knew I could be in rain all day and wanted to get back to Richmond before dark, I wanted to get started as early as possible so I was up and waiting for enough light to head out. In drizzle, I began at 6:30a with scant light due to fog and clouds. I picked my way carefully over the wet, rocky bits and averted a number of falls with those incomparable and indispensable hiking sticks. The day brightened as I hiked. I held a conservative but steady pace, until the misty shroud cleared and picked up the pace as the trail descended a lovely three miles into Chester Gap, Rt 522. Of note is that as I was sorting things out at my truck I spied three younger looking folk walking down the north side of 522 toward Front Royal and looking out of place, not locals, and moving with purpose. They approached the truck beside mine at the parking spot where the AT crosses 522 and we struck up some conversation. The close-by Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute, formerly the Conservation and Research Center of the National Zoo, which has fenced property on both sides of 522 extending for acres was their balliwick. They informed me of the Center's purpose and their roles as biologists. They had been on a four-hour hike collecting data and observing some ecological aspects of the area. Bright, young, enthusiastic minds, loving their profession and the opportunity to pursue interesting research: tax dollars well spent. They asked about my hike; upon my response their collective eyes widened with respect for an old man who was in his element as well: a fitting end to a most enjoyable adventure.
 |
| What a trail! |
 |
| Yes, that is definitely up. |
 |
| "One Misty, Moisty, Morning" |
 |
| A bright, sunny midday at trail's end |
Reflection: One with my pack, one with my boots, one with the trail, one with nature, and one with God. Life is so, so good. 
