Repeat Trail: Crater Lake NP with the Boy

Who: father and son

What: A four day camping, hiking experience

When: July 26 - 29, 2019

Where: Crater Lake N.P. (CLNP)

Three years ago, M and I visited CLNP for a day having traveled to the Pacific Northwest to spend time with the boy (see post July 6, 2016). Being early summer the east rim road was closed with snow; pictures from that trip show an abundance of remaining snow. We made a day of it mostly gazing at the lake from a variety of vantages. I checked a box on my bucket list not expecting to return.

This past winter when the family was considering a week-long vacation we decided to all fly out west to where the boy lived in St Helens, OR. We booked flights and reserved an AirBNB in an adjacent town, Scappoose: all set.

Two years ago I made a trip to St Helens soon after the boy moved there with a new job and stayed two weeks (see post November 6, 2017). I requested and received approval to stay an additional two weeks this trip with the boy after the family headed home.

One spring day the boy sent a text to the Micks Clan asking if anyone was interested in Crater Lake. With one week in a new vacation place with plenty to do and see, the group felt that driving the 5 hours each way and arranging accommodations was too much. But that did not deter the boy and me from planning a trip there during my extended stay.

Fast forward to July 13th: we all went out and had a delightful but busy time together, trying to see and do as much as we could and still have good family time. Success. July 20th left me alone after taking a group to the airport and as I headed back to St Helens, four mountain peaks visible on the return: Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, Mt. St Helens, Mt. Ranier. Paradise.

Before the trip I had been working hard at home and in town, getting ready to be away for three weeks and trying to make some progress on a number of projects hereabout. I needed some rest and downtime. So I spent a good part of the latter part of the trip at the boy's house just hanging out: reading, eating, walking about, going to yoga, reading, reading and spending time, when he was not working, with the boy and his friends. I knew that the upcoming Crater Lake trip was the centerpiece so I was lacking motivation to go off for a day and hike a mountain or two (did that two years ago).

Crater Lake NP Trip

Day One

We planned to camp at the Lost Creek Campground inside the park. There are 16 primitive sites (no water, no electricity, port-a-johns) available on a first-come-first-served basis. I was a bit anxious about this arrangement, knowing this was the busy season and other options where limited (I thought). So we left at 0-dark-30 and arrived with bright sunny skies and moderate temperatures around 10:00a. We entered via the south entrance to the park and proceeded around East Rim Drive which is only open mid-summer to fall due to snow. Though there were a number of overlooks to stop and view the lake we were not to be deterred from landing an early campsite. Lost Creek Campground is 4 miles south of the Rim Road, off the beaten track, and PTL, there were five open campsites. We made our choice and started setting up. By 11:30a all the sites were filled; good planning and providence. We paid at the self-pay registration kiosk and hung our reservation ticket on the number post of our site (#9). As we walked around the campground we noticed that the majority of campers were here for a one-night stay; people were just passing through to check out the lake, camp, and then head off somewhere else.

Our first day adventures surrounded getting the lay of the land. We set up next to Lost Creek at a bend in the loop and sorted out stuff on our picnic table while making plans for the day now that we were exuberant with our campsite success; we were now looking forward to four days in the park. We noticed a significant presence of mosquitos and though we had some repellent we put that on the top of our camp store list. We packed a lunch and headed up to the rim road and the additional 10 miles to the Steele Visitor Center, the NP Headquarters, with surrounding maintenance, administrative, and residential buildings. We first stopped at the intersection of the Pinnacles Road and the Rim Road at the Phantom Ship overlook already crowded with cars and tourists. We encountered Lisa, a California based outdoor enthusiast in cycling garb with bike. She was planning to ride the entire Rim Road and wanted our perspective on which direction to make the circle. She was also staying at Lost Creek, so we expected to see her again. Next up was to view the movie at HQ describing the park geological and anthropological history. If you are interested just visit the NP website. Suffice it to say, 7,500 years ago a cataclysmic volcanic event occurred that reduced towering Mt. Mazama to a caldera 5 to 6 miles across at 6,500 feet. This filled with snow and rain and is now the deepest lake in the USA. Further volcanic activity raised a 700 foot island near the north end of the lake named Wizard Island. We shopped a bit and then drove down to Mazama Village near the south park entrance. A large campground with tent and RV sites, a restaurant, and camp store run by concessionaires made for a bustling center of activity which we planned to avoid. Checked the store for sunscreen and insect repellent; struck out on number 2, no surprise in reflection. Putting that behind us we made our way to the Rim Village consisting of a grand hotel, rim walk, another NP gift shop, a concessionaires cafe and gift shop, and other support facilities. Lots of people around and getting busier my the minute. We munched lunch on a wall along the lake and took in its grandeur: pines, slopes, scree slides, snow remnants, and a vast expanse of blue water. We signed up for the Rim Road Trolley Tour scheduled for 10:00a the next day: a two hour round trip of the rim road led by a NP Ranger. Having visited all the facilities we headed back to camp stopping along the way at the Pinnacles, an array of rock formations from the volcanic activity. We ventured down the trail to the park boundary under clear skies and warmer temperatures than expected: high 80s but dry. Once back in camp we prepared our Pasta Sides with tuna packet protein bump on our two-burner propane stove. Meanwhile Lisa, presented herself at our site for a chinwag, just being neighborly. We would encounter her and her traveling partner Holly several more times which enriched our experience. By now the mosquitos were swarming and our repellent reserves were diminishing rapidly. I wandered over to the adjacent campsite and asked a couple how their stock was holding up. Hubby pulled out a small bottle of 100% DEET and squeezed some of the viscous liquid into my recommissioned Costco glass cleaner spray bottle filling it to the top. A couple of drops are dynamite, literally blowing those insects away. All set. As the sun dropped near the horizon so did the temperature and by the time we slipped into our two-man tent it had dropped 20 degrees. Warm sleeping bags a necessity on this trip.

Just arrived 

#9

Wizard Island and Lake

Phantom Ship

Pinnacles

Day Two

Up before the sun; chilly temps; frost on the picnic table; hot tea and a book. So quiet. Big plan for today: trolley tour and lake swim. After a snack breakfast, up to the rim for coffee at the cafe (ran into Lisa again and talked about what we were doing today; she was inspired by our plans to swim) and the 10:00a, two hour trolley tour around the entire Rim Road. The experience was like drinking from a firehose; our guide had encyclopedic knowledge combined with a delightful presence and delivery; stops at several inward viewpoints with expansive lake scenes and outward sites of waterfalls and other natural beauty. No chance of explaining the depth and breadth of our tour. Pictures will have to suffice.

After the tour we lunched at the Rim Cafe on their most popular offering: a big hot dog. We now know why it is so popular. Back in our car we headed around the west rim toward the Cleetwood Cove access, where a one mile trail takes you from the rim down into the caldera to the lake level. From here tourists can take a boat out to Wizard Island or find a spot along the rocky shoreline for a swim. The road and parking lot were packed with cars circling and all praying for someone to leave. We decided to make a pass at the parking lot and low-and-behold the boy recognized Lisa's rental with her rowing skull lashed to the top. We greeted her and made arrangements for her and Holly to back out just when we were in position. Go figure: providence? We said our goodbyes since they were leaving the park shortly. We changed into our swimming gear, walked through the mobs of people (this is Saturday) to the trailhead, and started down. At the bottom we passed by the boat dock and the 20 foot high jumping-off-rock over to some less populated rocks and slipped into the bracing and perfectly clear water. There were some shallow rocks at the edge but no more than 10 feet out the bottom plummeted out of view. Near the shore the water was warmer, so after a complete dunk in deeper chillier water we were able to comfortably stretch out half-in-half-out. We sunned for about an hour, chatted with some college kids, and made our way back to the trail. The ascent was classified as strenuous and as I am wont to do I adhered to my "slow and steady wins the race" philosophy to hiking uphill. The boy is of the same religion. Several individuals and groups passed us, some panting and sweating (it was a bit hot). We encountered them again, catching breath alongside the trail never to be seen again. On our return drive we stopped a several overlooks not visited beforehand. Back to camp, mosquitos swarming but at bay, dinner, bed.

Day Three

Today was wildflower and Rim Trail Day. With packed lunch, water and snacks, we headed toward the Watchman Overlook. First stop was Castle Crest Trail, a 0.5 mile loop through a meadow that just happened to be at its peak color, a benefit of coming late July. There were many flowers along Lost Creek as well. We braved the mosquitos, but the boy had not been treated and had on short sleeves. He got hit more than a few times. We then stopped at the Steele Center again to walk the 1.0 mile Lady of the Woods loop trail that meandered through many of the NP HQ buildings. The printed trail guide revealed the history and use of the various dwellings, offices and workshops as well as the namesake stone carving. We learned a bit more about park history and who resides here. On Watchman Peak on the rim is perched an active fire tower rangers use for spotting potential hazards. The tower is actually a stone foundation with a frame upper portion. The rim trail leads up to it a from the overlook and then at a junction proceeds around the rim to Discovery Overlook (traveling widdershins) and back to Rim Village. We hiked up the dusty, sun beaten trail to the fully occupied base of the tower with views on three sides. We could see a ranger in the upper off-limits tower. After lunch and several meaningful conversations with companion scene-viewers, we began our way back to the trail. One surprising thing was the lack of knowledge people had about the area. Having watched the video and experienced the rim tour we found ourselves relative experts to those around us. One PCT hiker dude we came across said something to the effect: wow man, what big effing asteroid made that hole? Nuff said. We did enjoy responding to peoples' questions about things hereabout since we apparently knew the names of geographical features and some history of the place. We encouraged everyone to go the to Steele Center and see the film. The hike on the rim trail was a modest 3 miles, but contained several abrupt changes in altitude which left us puffing a bit and somewhat short of water. The views from the trail, where often you were perched on a non-barricaded sheer drop off, where breath-taking from beauty and fear of tipping over down the slope. Enough to make a mom nervous. We dropped into the next overlook needing a hitch back to the rental at the Watchman and encountered Amanda sitting is her beater just taking in the scene. She said she liked giving people rides. She was definitely an earth child following her wanderlust, leaving the area soon for other places and knowing she needed to see the lake before her departure. We resonated with her and her traveling companion, a friendly, petite black and white canine that jumped into the back seat with me and curled up in my lap for the trip, occasionally sticking her nose up near the open window for that ear-flapping breeze. We made a rest stop at the Rim Cafe for rehydration and a second lunch (we had packed well) in the upper sitting area overlooking the rim, lake, and parking lot. The boy noticed a flurry of red and brown feathers descend into the midst of this crowded area and capture one of those squirrels that look more like a chipmunk. For a good two minutes the hawk stayed calmly put, establishing a secure grasp of its prey before spreading it wings in a demonstration of strength and power when lifting off to awestruck onlookers with photo-snapping mobiles. Nature rules. Our plans for the day concluded with a trip down the Mazama Village to walk two trails there (the boy had it all planned out). To our disappointment all we were able to see where RVs and tent sites, both trails being closed due to hazardous tree falls. We were pretty well burnt anyway from our full day, so returning to camp promised rest and refreshment. By now mosquitos were just part of the landscape, I mean, how long before us has that pest (to us) been living in natural harmony in this wilderness? Food. Bed. Early. 

Wildflowers

(Remember that you can click on the photos and go full screen)

Meadowland beauty

Watchman and Rim Trail

Watchman Overlook Panorama

Watchman Peak (see the trail?)

Trail to Watchman Tower

From the tower - Wizard Island behind

Mt Thielson to the north

Day Four

The last day was a short morning in the park. We had accomplished so much that we knew we were ready to head north and we had some commitments late in the afternoon. We were up early, packed, and out just after sunrise. Our last adventure was the Plaikni Falls trail, one mile each way out-and-back through old growth forest and swarming mosquitos to a beautiful waterfall. Worth the trip. Here were the biggest trees we had seen in the park. Our last stop was the Rim Cafe for coffee and egg, sausage, and cheese biscuits, small but tasty. We had plenty of leftover snacks for the trip. As we were gazing one last time over the rim we could smell smoke and the caldera was hazy. We were talking to a lady working the NP gift shop and she said that we were leaving on a good day because there were fires to the south and the prevailing winds were bringing the smoke northward. Apparently the caldera is a natural accumulation spot for smoke due to the vastness of the lake and its cool surface temperature. Incoming visitors were going to be disappointed with the appearance of the lake. Well, that made us the more grateful for the clear skies and ideal temperatures we had experienced for three plus days. Our NP ranger guide on the trolley mentioned and activity with Ponderosa pines. Near the park entrances at lower elevation stand these turtle-barked trees. Stick your nose in close to gaps in the bark and sniff: vanilla or butterscotch? We had planned to do this on the way out, but was told by another ranger that the pines were near the south entrance; we were heading north. O well, you cannot do everything. But wait. We exited the park and turned onto the long, straight road leading to the highway. I was driving and noticed some trees with bark that looked like puzzle pieces or the shell of a turtle. Hey boy! are those Ponderosas? He looked and sure enough we saw them becoming more frequent on the roadside. A quick pullover, flashers blazing, a short walk over to a big one and sniff. Verdict? Two votes for butterscotch; must be genetic. What a wonderful end to an amazing trip.

Reflections

Time with the boy is precious
Who knew about all those mosquitos
Good weather can go a long way to enhancing an out-of-doors experience
Providence never fails: campsite, new friends and parking spots - why doubt?
The wonder of creation brings mystical revelations
Thanks to the National Park Service and all its employees
Thanks to those who had the foresight to advocate for preservation of natural treasures

New Trail: Winding Stair Gap, NC to Springer Mt., GA

On the line

When: June 5 - 14, 2018
Where: Western NC, North GA
Weather: 80s over 60s, thunderstorms some days.
Elevation Points of Interest: Albert Mt. (Fire Tower) - 5250', Standing Indian Mt. - 5498', Blood Mt. - 4461', Springer Mt. - 3782'.

Distance: 109.8 AT miles; 8.8 Approach Trail miles




The last time I hiked the AT at length was 2.5 years ago. Shoulder surgery and recovery among other distractions, kept me off the long trail until now. I had been training and hiking some but I wondered if I had what it took to master this trek. Those spin and yoga classes at the gym, walks around town and those ups and downs to the lower forty apparently did the trick. I had a plan and stuck to it except on the penultimate day where I hiked to the top of Springer Mt. instead of the previous shelter 2.8 miles down the mountain.

Original plan notes with revisions

The key to above is that a triangle indicates a known campsite and three horizontal lines a shelter (logs maybe?). The left column of numbers shows the distance between stops and the right the cumulative total which I entered at the end of each hiking day. 

Day 1: After one night in Asheville, NC visiting M's clan, we drove over to Franklin, NC and up to the gap for my departure. My plan was to hike 9.1 to Big Spring Shelter with the heaviest pack this trip, probably around 32 pounds including 7 days provision; It only gets lighter from here. I waltzed into a shelter in mid-afternoon with a group of day hikers and some confusion where I was precisely. Using an old trail guide (2012) can cause some problems. A new shelter had been built and an old one razed, but what was what? After some head scratching I determined that I was not at my targeted shelter (no name plate, did not fit description, distance wrong) so I struck out for it. Well, when I arrived at the spot this was the razed shelter. O my! No problem; I just hiked a bit further to the top of Albert Mt. with its fire tower. Much better setting and I had watered up so no shortage of the cool stuff. Spent the night solo in windy and cool surroundings - refreshing. 

Winding Stair

Largest trillium I have ever seen

Long Branch Shelter - typical for this section of trail

Albert Mt. marker 

Great campsite near fire tower

Day 2: As I was packing up, Bob showed at the fire tower and we struck up a meaningful conversation. We traveled together (not heel to top on the trail) and met up at two other tent sites before he left the trail. Under clear skies and with pleasant temperatures I spent a leisurely day (meaning lots of stops and rest needed for first full day) and ascended Standing Indian Mt. We debated where to camp and chose the peak with marvelous views, breezy conditions and good company. Several hikers, all northbound (NoBos), stopped by for the view. Jessie decided to stay over and we pitched tents and enjoyed the evening sunset.

Bob and Jessie

Clear top of the morning

Day 3: Fairly easy terrain today into Plumborchard Gap Shelter. Weather delightful. Wildflower Day. Crossed into North GA. Met Bob at campsite with more poison ivy around than I have seen recently. The shelter was 0.2 miles down a steep grade with water below. We choose to take the campsite versus the shelter but did go down packless for water, bear box storage, and fellowship. Lively group at the shelter with many excellent campsites about.

Gnarly

Resting folks

Mountain Laurel

Got ferns?

Plumborchard campsite - stock photo

Day 4: Back down to the shelter to pick up food and water and then headed out toward Dick's Creek Gap and a popular trail intersection with US76 and Hiawassee, GA 11.0 miles west. Bob's wife and brother-in-law met him and me around 12:30p. Off they went. I spend a good hour here for water, lunch, rest, foot maintenance and conversation. More severe ups and downs today but I made reasonable time into Sassafras Gap with good campsite and water. Fourth night in a row tenting; something I had never done before. Little bit of rain but I had organized my gear within the capacious rain fly that extends away from the door. Love my tent. All dry in the morning.

Spring emanating from a lagoon under a tree

Sassafras campsite solo sundown

Day 5: With more arduous hiking (three significant ups and downs) I spent 9.5 hours on the trail from 8a to 5:30p with many breaks. As I dropped into Unicoi Gap (GA75 into Helen, GA) with 2.5 miles to go and a 1000' climb, the rains came. You probably have seen those notice boards under small pitched roofs on both sides informing travelers and hikers of directions, rules, warnings, and other info. There were about 6 hikers with packs crammed in on both sides while the heavens dumped torrential, blowing rain. We were all getting wet and more people were hustling down the trail and from across the road for shelter. What to do? A young adult with iPhone announced another hour of the stuff before it cleared. Grumbling and jostling made for an unwelcome spot. So with rain jacket donned, I just took off across the road and up the trail that had become a river. I took my time, while my lower body and shoes were soaked as I made my way up Blue Mt. I arrived at the shelter damp but no worse for wear. The skies cleared, up went the clothesline for wet, dry clothes unpacked and dinner prepared with enjoyable company of three others in the roomy, dry shelter. A beautiful but somewhat obscured view from the top was a delight. No tent pitching this night, I spread my ground cloth on the planks of the shelter floor, inflated my O-so-comfortable sleeping pad, unrolled my fleece summer sleep sack and just stretched out for a well-deserved rest before dinner. If at any point on the trail I could claim that "I crushed it" this was it. I wondered if someone waiting out the weather down in the gap said of me as I headed out in the deluge, "That dude came for some serious hiking."

Grand stand of mayapple

Massive root ball along trail

Lots of blow downs - trail where?

Notice Board mini-shelter

Blue Mt. Shelter

Day 6: Learned about pop-tart oatmeal this morning: one of my shelter-mates put some oatmeal in a bowl then placed a crumbled one (they do not stay in one piece in a backpack) on top and added hot water. Made an appetizing mush. Ahead was my longest hike: 15.1 tame miles to Wolf Laurel Top; well, there was a rain soaked hike up to the ridge. But the skies cleared in time for me to set up camp and be ready for another storm if one presented itself. A few sprinkles came and went. Another solo camp in a beautiful spot with a marvelous view. Later when all was dark I got up for a nature call and saw two sights not normally seen: A road passed through a mountain gap some ways away and as motor vehicles came through their lights shone as a bright spot slowly moving down from the gap. They appeared as an undulating string of pearls glimmering in the near total darkness. But then I glanced above to see more stars than I have seen in many a year. The constellations were so pronounced I recognized several I do see at home. And across the entire celestial ceiling appeared a stark, concentrated ban of stars several inches wide in my near vision from lower left to upper right: the Milky Way in all its glory. I actually gasped at the sight and then thought of God's promise to Father Abraham that his offspring would number as many as these. I settled back into my accommodations with awe and wonder. 

Day 7: Resupply; I was down to just a little bit of breakfast food and some snacks, indicating my food plan was just about right. By 10:30a I had hiked 3.7 miles down to Neels Gap noted for the only place where the AT passes through a building: hostel to the right and outfitter to the left. On my way in I encountered a family and had an engaging and meaningful conversation. One of the moms was talking to a girl child and said,"We were hoping to see a real hiker." I had on my pack and they asked me a bunch of questions about what and how I was doing. They helped me stage some photos at the pass-through. I spent a luxurious 2.5 hours charging my phone, checking in with M, eating an entire pizza, buying food and some snacks to consume there. My Sawyer 3-way water filter let me down on day one. I connect it in-line with the hydration system nestled in my pack, so that all I have to do is put water (treated or not) in the bladder and then suck it through. I tested it a home and noticed a bit more resistance in the filter than should be and once on the trail found it too difficult to sustain, so I prayed for protection and unhooked it. From that point forward I was very careful to take water only from springs or really good looking streams. No ill effects. I decided to buy the latest filter Sawyer had to offer and found it extremely satisfactory for the remainder of my trip. I had a good sort through all my gear and then headed up the north side of Blood Mt., a notoriously steep and rocky climb many avoid (may be a reason most folks hike south to north). I made slow and steady progress up to the crest and the 1934 stone shelter, beating the stormy weather by an hour or so. Spectacular views and antiquated setting. Lots of day hikers out coming up from fire road crossings on the south face, a much easier climb. Three folks appeared out of the storm as I and two other hikers who were waiting out the weather were taking advantage of the shelter. This was "Trail Magic": that unexpected provision of sustenance both temporal and spiritual. They opened up their daypacks and spread an assortment of fruit and water bottles before us encouraging us to take full advantage. Fresh fruit on the trail? Unheard of. The shelter was a dry camp and I had lugged more water up the slope than I wanted and still felt I was a bit short for the start tomorrow; shortage solved with one medium size bottle. The shelter had two rooms and I had swept out the back one and arranged my gear. Thinking I would be alone as darkness approached I dined and was about ready to bed down with rain pouring down and Anne showed up from Gooch Mt. Shelter, poncho in place and weary from an extended day. We shared accommodations and stories and had a quiet and dry night of it.

Quizzical Family 

Neels Gap pass-through

Who put that rock on top?

Day 8: From here to Springer is pretty easy hiking and I was feeling very good, so I was sanguine about the remaining days and nights on the trail even with foggy damp conditions. I left Blood Mt. around 8:00a and arrived at Gooch Mt. around 4:45p to a shelter and camping area brimming with Boy Scouts from Florida. Why so many Floridians? If you live in FL and want mountains, these are the closest. After some discussion with boys and leaders, I carved out my crib on the left of the lower level of this roomy two storey. The boys said that Hannah was coming up later to start a fire in the fire ring. Not long after she showed offering some vittles: venison sausage. She had an abundance which needed to be consumed in the next few days and had not the capacity to eat them all. I weighed in since I was a little short of food for my last days, tasted a sample and delighted in the sage and fennel seasoning. No boys initially partook, but a bit later one addressed me with a request for a taste. That courage started a demand that took half of my stash, but still left enough for lunch tomorrow. The palindromic lady from KY came up early and we struck up some serious and enlightening conversation whilst attempting to ignite damp tinder. We failed with the fire, but I became acquainted with a formidable pioneer woman whose story is too long and involved to tell. We resonated on many philosophical points and agreed to stay in touch. Trip to KY? The Scouts nor their leaders were well acquainted with AT shelter traditions and protocol, so the noise did not die down until well past hiker midnight. Also, if someone snores loudly and persistently, they often choose to tent away from the shelter. Not so this evening, so I had to endure a night of log-sawing breathing which challenged my ability to control my response to the annoyance.

Damp foggy day of hiking

A few scouts at Gooch Mt.

Day 9: My last full day on the trail had a target of the Stover Creek Shelter some 13.0 miles away. I left earlier than previous days with the niggling thought of pushing the additional 2.8 miles up to the Springer summit and shelter. I tried to resist just thinking of ending to no avail; adrenaline pumping a bit. I made excellent time to Stover Creek having convinced myself to not make a decision until that place. I arrived about 4:00p, rested for a bit, but them decided to push up the mountain. Best decision I made on the trip. The climb was not too arduous, the shelter was classic, water was abundant, the folks there were just the right mix for good table talk. Before settling in, I climbed to the top of Springer (0.2 mile further), essentially ending the AT portion of my hike on day 9, and then came back down to the shelter for the evening. This decision set me up for the 8.8 mile descent to the Amicalola Falls SP Visitor Center and the rendezvous with M. If I had not ascended all the way I would have been faced with a morning uphill slog, a hurried experience at the top and then an even more hurried descent. As it turned out I had a delightful time with the folks both in the shelter and tenting around, all of whom were heading north and had just endured the rigors of the Approach Trail. As a bedded down in the shelter between two Scottish Highlander teens on my right and two experienced backpackers on the left, I felt euphoric lying on top of my sleeping gear in the residual warmth of the day until the cool of the evening chased me under covers.

Official plaque signifying southern terminus

Proof of completion; I am happy about it.

GA club plaque with adjacent AT blaze: first one heading north

Springer Mt. Shelter

Day 10: Up early, but not rushing due to location up the mountain. Rendezvous was for 2:00p but I wanted to get there about 1:00p to give me some slack to sort myself out before she arrived. I fixed pop-tart oatmeal and coffee to get me going. The Approach Trail is not officially part of the AT; there is a fire road that provides access to Springer one mile shy of the peak, so a hiker can avoid this ascent when starting their NoBo trek, but most do not. I am glad I finished this way going down and south, rather than starting there and hiking north. It is an arduous 8.8 mile journey that often persuades naive potential thru-hikers to hang up their boots. The 2000' descent is trail-like for the first 7 miles but then one arrives at the top of Amicalola Falls and a set of 604 well-engineered but steep steps to the base. After that there is another mile of steep paved trail down to the Visitor Center. That ascent for a Nobo hiker is a literal shakedown cruise. Most start with too much gear, a full load of food, and probably too much water on board. Many campsites peppered the trail to the summit which I am sure in heavy spring hiking season are jammed with folks that made it up a mile or two above the falls before petering out. I met one young lady on the paved trail around 1:00p glistening with sweat and puffing laboriously who thought she was going to make the shelter that afternoon. Not likely. I arrived on schedule by really humping it on some flat spots higher up. I grabbed a soda and changed into some less odiferous clothes and shoes and while changing M showed up and found my stuff near an arch behind the Center defining the beginning of the Approach Trail. Hiking adventure done! Heading home.

Morning departure from Springer summit

Trail buddy

Falls and steps from the base

End of trail for me; beginning for NoBos

Reflections

Bookend: After hiking 1200+ miles and ending at Springer I how have an AT bookend experience: finishing a long hike at one end of the trail. This hike was also the culmination of 5 or so years of experience that made the outing go so well. I plan to stay in the shape I am now and be ready for whatever comes next. I do not have my heart set on hiking the entire AT, but do have loose plans. The remaining mileage in PA I would like to share with my Baltimore family over whatever time frame and sections we choose to undertake. That will put me close to 1300 miles. There are two other sections I want to hike: the White Mts. in New Hampshire and the 100 mile wilderness in Maine that leads up to Katahdin, the northern terminus. These will also be family hikes in the sense that M and I plan to travel to the location and spend whatever time I need to complete the section. M, as in this trip, will be my logistical support: taking me to trailheads, picking me up a few days later, helping with resupply, sharing nights in indoor accommodations and meals prepared by someone else, and providing companionship. While I am hiking, she can soak up what the area has to offer. There are other off-AT hikes I would like to experience: the John Muir Trail, part of the PCT near Yosemite NP; some PCT in the Oregon Cascade Range with the boy, some local Shenandoah trails with friends.

Best Hike? Nearly two weeks have passed since I finished and I as I relive the experience I believe this could have been the best AT hike so far, closely followed by sections in the Smokies, southwest VA near Roanoke, Maryland (with family) and middle PA. What makes a "best" hike? People, solitude, preparedness, openness, flexibility, natural beauty, weather, challenge, patience, love. After having been off the trail for so long, getting back on was just exhilarating and satisfying; being able to do this at this stage of my life is truly a blessing. Thank you, Lord.